Shindig Gully

(17 routes)

This is the largest and most downstream of the gullies with a sheer left wall extending up the gully. The gully itself is the best access route to the upper parts of the mountain, mostly scree with an occasional rock step. It was used as a descent route by Hugh Logan in the 1970s. Lower Shindig Gully sits at a friendly angle , is festooned with flakes and incuts, and beautiful wire placements. It is a great middle grade adventure climbing venue.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Art for Aats Sake 20,22
2.01
8bolts
Immediately left of Centrefire pitch one. Up to a niche in the wall with a fixed belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1200m4No
 

Immediately left of Centrefire pitch one. Up to a niche in the wall with a fixed belay.

2220m4No
 

Directly up the wall parallel to Centrefires second pitch and finishing at its belay.

Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy 2002
Shindig Gully
0
Descended in difficult icy conditions. Descended again by Logan and Thomson on October 1977 with softer snow at the top and therefore easier.
Hugh Logan Paul Scaife Nov 1976
Boy Germs 20
2.01
Who said New Zealand rock has no lines? Follows the large diagonal corner visible from the valley. Excellent well protected 50m crack with a good crux.
Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999
Early Onset 17
1.02
TBA
Dave Brash, Laimonis Cavalieris, January 2000
Rocket 15
1.02
A corner which narrows from a chimney to a hand crack.
Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999
So Far Away 19 ,18 ,15
0
Thin moves up to the hand crack 3m left of the Steerpike corner, climb the crack and through the roof above. In 2001 the huge flake forming the right hand side of a perfect hand crack at the start of the second pitch fell off. Grade may be harder now.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mNo
 

TBA

2180mNo
 

TBA

3150mNo
 

TBA

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999
Steerpike 19 ,17 ,19
2.01
Aims for immaculate leaning corner with roof near top. To gain ledge climb short wall by left-to-right diagonal. Up thin cracks and small corners to gain the main corner. Follow to roof, step right and gain crack line directly above roof. No fixed anchors, descend by traversing south a short distance to the Centrefire abseil line.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mNo
 

TBA

2170mNo
 

TBA

3190mNo
 

TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, March 1997
Superconnector 15 ,17 ,14
0
A thin hand crack up and left of the orange wall then up the corner above, moving onto the arête at the top of the corner.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mNo
 

TBA

2170mNo
 

TBA

3140mNo
 

TBA

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, Nov 1999
Chimney Sweep 15 ,18 ,16
0
TBA
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mNo
 

TBA

2180mNo
 

TBA

3160mNo
 

TBA

John Hamilton, Murray Judge, February 1999
Aftershock 17 ,17 ,18
2.01
4
Alternative second and third pitches were climbed by Steve Carr, Alastair Mark and Jeff Shamansky March 1999, climbing straight above first belay (Carr, Shamansky, Mark. 19), and moving right from the second belay, ('You be the Judge' - Mark, Carr, Shamansky. 23). Thin face climbing then bridging up the corner. Belay in the corner then continue to bolt belay on ridge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mNo
 

TBA

2170mNo
 

TBA

3180mNo
 

TBA

Wayo Carson, John Hamilton, Murray Judge, February 1999
Centre Fire 17 ,19 ,20
3
Aims for the thin crack in the centre of the face. Up to ledge, then straight through overhangs and up face. Same with second overhang, then follow long thin crack to a shallow recess. Climb up right to steep jugs and wall above. Bolt belays, good abseil descent. The second pitch of this climb has been described as amongst the finest climbing in the mountains.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mNo
 

TBA

2190mNo
 

TBA

3200mNo
 

TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson February 1997
Big Day Out 17
1.02
An alternative first pitch a few metress to the right of Centrefire.
Mouths of Babes 18 ,16
1.02
A line of flakes up to a good ledge and straight up the wall above.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mNo
 

TBA

2160mNo
 

TBA

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999
Quake 21 ,19
1.02
Climb through overlaps to gain shallow corner. One bolt runner. Follow corner and turn final roof on left. Bolt belays, good abseil descent.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210mNo
 

TBA

2190mNo
 

TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, February 1997
Shaky Flaky
0
Climb left facing corner 10m right of Quake to belay at flakes. Second pitch up cracks to arête.
Darren Williams, Duncan Chessell, February 1999
Tachycardia 23 ,23
1.02
13bolts
This route is in Upper Shindig Gully.
Steve Carr and Jonathon Clearwater Nov 2003
Bladerunner 20 45m
2.01
8bolts 2
The base of the Shindig Gully is bordered by a spectacular arete. Climb the LH wall, and trend right to follow the arete to an outrageous step right onto the cantilevered nose at 35m, surrounded by air on all sides. Continue to DBB on ridgeline. The rock architecture is sensational. About 8B plus natural pro.
Dave Brash, Steve Carr, 2008
UUID: 
70c6a728-e5d7-410a-b2eb-c2fdb504ce1d