Shindig Gully

This is the largest and most downstream of the gullies with a sheer left wall extending up the gully. The gully itself is the best access route to the upper parts of the mountain, mostly scree with an occasional rock step. It was used as a descent route by Hugh Logan in the 1970s. Lower Shindig Gully sits at a friendly angle , is festooned with flakes and incuts, and beautiful wire placements. It is a great middle grade adventure climbing venue.

Type:

Wall

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Shindig Gully

Descended in difficult icy conditions. Descended again by Logan and Thomson on October 1977 with softer snow at the top and therefore easier.

Hugh Logan Paul Scaife Nov 1976

Tachycardia

23 ,23

This route is in Upper Shindig Gully.

Steve Carr and Jonathon Clearwater Nov 2003

Boy Germs

Who said New Zealand rock has no lines? Follows the large diagonal corner visible from the valley. Excellent well protected 50m crack with a good crux.

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999

Early Onset

Climb the face between Boygerms and the Rocket corner to the right of you.

Dave Brash, Laimonis Cavalieris, January 2000

Rocket

A corner which narrows from a chimney to a hand crack.

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999

So Far Away

19,18,15

Thin moves up to the hand crack 3m left of the Steerpike corner, climb the crack and through the roof above. In 2001 the huge flake forming the right hand side of a perfect hand crack at the start of the second pitch fell off. Now that the enormous flake has gone, this route is unclimbable. A new route may be possible up the new corner where the original flake was attached.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	19	0m	No
2	18	0m	No
3	15	0m	No

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999

Steerpike

19 ,17 ,19

Aims for immaculate leaning corner with roof near top. To gain ledge climb short wall by left-to-right diagonal. Up thin cracks and small corners to gain the main corner. Follow to roof, step right and gain crack line directly above roof. No fixed anchors, descend by traversing south a short distance to the Centrefire abseil line.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	19	0m	No
	TBA
2	17	0m	No
	TBA
3	19	0m	No
	TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, March 1997

Superconnector

15 ,17 ,14

A thin hand crack up and left of the orange wall then up the corner above, moving onto the arête at the top of the corner.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	15	0m	No
	TBA
2	17	0m	No
	TBA
3	14	0m	No
	TBA

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, Nov 1999

Chimney Sweep

15 ,18 ,16

TBA

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	15	0m	No
	TBA
2	18	0m	No
	TBA
3	16	0m	No
	TBA

John Hamilton, Murray Judge, February 1999

Aftershock

17 ,17 ,18

Alternative second and third pitches were climbed by Steve Carr, Alastair Mark and Jeff Shamansky March 1999, climbing straight above first belay (Carr, Shamansky, Mark. 19), and moving right from the second belay, ('You be the Judge' - Mark, Carr, Shamansky. 23). Thin face climbing then bridging up the corner. Belay in the corner then continue to bolt belay on ridge.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	17	0m	No
	TBA
2	17	0m	No
	TBA
3	18	0m	No
	TBA

Wayo Carson, John Hamilton, Murray Judge, February 1999

Art for Aats Sake

20,22

Immediately left of Centrefire pitch one. Up to a niche in the wall with a fixed belay.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	20	0m	4	No
	Immediately left of Centrefire pitch one. Up to a niche in the wall with a fixed belay.
2	22	0m	4	No
	Directly up the wall parallel to Centrefires second pitch and finishing at its belay.

Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy 2002

Centrefire

17,19,20

Aims for the thin crack in the centre of the face. Up to ledge, then straight through overhangs and up face. Same with second overhang, then follow long thin crack to a shallow recess. Climb up right to steep jugs and wall above. Bolt belays, good abseil descent. The second pitch of this climb has been described as amongst the finest climbing in the mountains.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	17	0m	No
	TBA
2	19	0m	No
	TBA
3	20	0m	No
	TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, February 1997

Big Day Out

A three pitch line climbed ground up on trad gear. Begin several metres to the right of Centrefire, climb to trad belay near thin crack. 2) Continue just to right of thin crack. 3) Cross crack to reach top and exposed scramble. Grades 17, 17, 13.

Mouths of Babes

18,16

Start in the 'alcove' the follow the line of flakes up to a good ledge and straight up the wall above.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	18	0m	No
	TBA
2	16	0m	No
	TBA

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, November 1999

Quake

21 ,19

Climb through overlaps to gain shallow corner. One bolt runner. Follow corner and turn final roof on left. Bolt belays, good abseil descent.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	21	0m	No
	TBA
2	19	0m	No
	TBA

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, February 1997

Shaky Flaky

Climb left facing corner 10m right of Quake to sketchy belay at flakes. (Needs to have Bolt Belay). Second pitch up cracks to arête.

Darren Williams, Duncan Chessell, February 1999

Bladerunner

45m

The base of the Shindig Gully is bordered by a spectacular arete. Climb the LH wall, and trend right to follow the arete to an outrageous step right onto the cantilevered nose at 35m, surrounded by air on all sides. Continue to DBB on ridgeline. The rock architecture is sensational. About 8B plus natural pro.

Dave Brash, Steve Carr, 2008

This place appears in

Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: a guide for climbers

2001

UUID:

70c6a728-e5d7-410a-b2eb-c2fdb504ce1d

(17 routes)

This place appears in