Shindig Gully | ClimbNZ

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This is the largest and most downstream of the gullies with a sheer left wall extending up the gully. The gully itself is the best access route to the upper parts of the mountain, mostly scree with an occasional rock step. It was used as a descent route by Hugh Logan in the 1970s. Lower Shindig Gully sits at a friendly angle , is festooned with flakes and incuts, and beautiful wire placements. It is a great middle grade adventure climbing venue.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Boy Germs, 20	20	50m		2.01
P1 20 50m Trad Who said New Zealand rock has no lines? Follows the large diagonal corner visible from the valley. Excellent well protected crack with a good crux.
	Early Onset, 17	17	50m		1.02
P1 17 50m Trad Scramble to the belay ledge (13, 25m) – trad belay. Now climb the face to another trad belay.
	Rocket, 15	15	50m		1.02
P1 15 50m Trad Scramble to the belay ledge (13, 25m) – trad belay. The corner narrows from a chimney to a hand crack. Trad belay.
	So Far Away, 19	19	0m		0
Alert: In 2001 the huge flake forming the right-hand side of a hand crack at the start of the second pitch fell off. There is dangerous rubble on the ledges below and this route now may be unclimbable. P1 19 Trad Thin moves up to the hand crack 3m left of the Steerpike corner, climb the crack and through the roof above. P2 18 P3 15
	Steerpike, 19	19	0m		2.01
Aims for the immaculate leaning corner with a roof near the top. Trad belays. To descend abseil Centrefire. P1 19 Trad To gain the ledge, climb a short wall by left-to-right diagonal. P2 17 Trad Up thin cracks and small corners to gain the main corner. P3 19 Trad Follow the corner to the roof, step right and gain a crack line directly above.
	Superconnector, 17	17	0m		0
P1 15 Trad A thin hand crack up and left of the orange wall. P2 17 Trad Climb the corner. P3 14 Trad Move onto the arête at the top of the corner.
	Chimney Sweep, 18	18	0m		0
P1 15 Trad Start from the left side of the orange wall. All trad belays. P2 18 Trad Up a groove. P3 16 Trad Continue to the top.
	Aftershock, 18	18	0m	5	2.01
Traverse a ledge at the base of the orange wall to its right-hand end. P1 17 3 Trad Climb up on the right edge of the orange wall. Bolt belay. P2 17 5 Trad Slant right, then back left. Alternatively, climb direct at grade 19 (Steve Carr, Alastair Mark, Jeff Shamansky, March 1999). P3 18 2 Trad Continue straight up to the ridge.
	You Be the Judge, 23	23	0m	3	0
P1 23 3 Trad From the second belay on Aftershock, thin face climbing diagonally right takes you into the corner. Bridge up the corner and construct a trad belay at the top, then continue to a bolt belay on the ridge.
	Art for Aats Sake, 22	22	0m	4	2.01
P1 20 4 Trad Immediately left of Centrefire pitch one. Up to a niche in the wall with a fixed belay. P2 22 4 Trad Directly up the wall parallel to Centrefire’s second pitch and finishing at its bolt belay. Beautiful face climbing.
	Centrefire, 20	20	0m		3
Aims for the thin crack in the centre of the face. Up to ledge, then straight through overhangs and up face. Same with second overhang, then follow long thin crack to a shallow recess. Climb up right to steep jugs and wall above. Bolt belays, good abseil descent. P1 17 Trad Aim for the thin crack in the centre of the face. Up to a ledge, then straight through overhangs and up the face. Bolt belay. P2 19 Trad Climb through the second overhang, then follow a long thin crack to a shallow recess. This pitch has been described as amongst the finest climbing in the mountains. Bolt belay. P3 20 Trad Climb up right to some steep jugs and the wall above. Bolt belay.
	Big Day Out, 17	17	0m		1.02
P1 17 Trad The first ascent was ground up. Begin several metres to the right of Centrefire and climb to trad belay near a thin crack. P2 17 Trad Continue just to the right of a thin crack. P3 13 Trad Cross the crack to reach the top and an exposed scramble.
	T.K.O., 17	17	0m		0
P1 15 Trad Start in an alcove at the base of the wall and climb trending left. Bolt belay. P2 17 Trad A long pitch, close to Big Day Out. Bolt belay. P3 16 Trad Continue, finishing at the Mouths of Babes trad belay.
	Mouths of Babes, 18	18	0m		1.02
Start in the 'alcove' the follow the line of flakes up to a good ledge and straight up the wall above. P1 18 Trad Start up a crack on the right-hand edge of the alcove at the base of the wall. Follow a line of flakes up to a good ledge. P2 16 Trad Straight up the wall above to a trad belay.
	Quake, 21	21	0m	1	1.02
P1 21 1 Trad Climb through overlaps to gain a shallow corner. Bolt belay. P2 19 Trad Follow the corner and turn the final roof on the left. Bolt belay. Good abseil descent.
	Shaky Flaky, 17	17	0m		0
P1 17 Trad Climb the left-facing corner 10m right of Quake to a sketchy trad belay at flakes. P2 16 Trad Up cracks to the arête.
	Bladerunner, 20	20	45m	8	2.01
The base of the Shindig Gully is bordered by a spectacular arete. Climb the LH wall, and trend right to follow the arete to an outrageous step right onto the cantilevered nose at 35m, surrounded by air on all sides. Continue to DBB on ridgeline. The rock architecture is sensational. About 8B plus natural pro. P1 20 45m 8

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