Red Rock Buttress

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Part of

Across the river from the campsite and up the tussock slopes is a long North-facing cliff catching lots of sun. Sunshine Coast is at the right-hand end of these cliffs. Most of the cliff is broken-looking, but a prominent narrow buttress of more solid rock left of center catches the eye. This is Red Rock Buttress. An couple of aesthetic original trad lines thread the blocky arete itself, while the steep west facing wall (the 'West Wing' - not visible from camp) above the gully to the right holds four steep, high-quality two-pitch routes. The gully and these routes are accessed by any one of three single-pitch access routes (The Orange Flash, Moonbeak or Talon). The access and West Wing routes are a mix of trad, mixed pro and sport, and have bolted rap stations.
The base of the buttress is accessed by going up steep-ish grass slopes cross the creek from camp, then a straightforward but exposed ledge from the right. Half an hour.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Gastro Colic, 18	18			0
P1 18 The crest of the pillar on the left, natural gear.
TRB	TRBThe Red Baron, 21	21	60m	5	2.01
Grades, bolts, length all poorly remembered! Be prepared for anything approximately in ranges given. What is recalled: High quality bolted climbing on near-vertical orange rock with superb edges. Bolt spacing leaves you with the sense of adventure that is the hallmark of Twin Stream rockclimbing. 2 pitches. The right-hand/most uphill route in the gully. Shares top DBA (and possibly mid-anchor?) with Whispering Wings. A few pieces of gear may even not go amiss to fill in gaps between bolts. See Red Rock Butress topo (TRB). P1 21 30m 3 P2 21 30m 5
WW	WWWhispering Wings, 20	20	60m	7	1.02
A really very nice route. All bolts or light rack... memory fails. Probably sport but be prepared with some gear in case. Please add comment or edit on here! Two pitches. Exact length, grade and bolts/gear not remembered, but it is good climbing on mainly new bolts, up and slightly right, thin at times on generally superb rock. See crag topo (On Red Rock Butress page) to find route (the left hand bolted route in the gully). Afternoon sun. P1 20 30m 7 Start in the shallow corner/groove to the left, or probably more easily straight up. P2 20 30m 7
	Red Rock Buttress, 18	18			0
Start at bottom right, natural gear with fixed abseils. The first two pitches were climbed by Kynan Bazeley, two weeks earlier. P1 18 TBA P2 17 TBA P3 17 TBA P4 15 TBA
TOF	TOFThe Orange Flash, 20	20		3	1.02
A great way to access the routes on the West wall of Red Rock Buttress. An entertaining mixed pro route through the roofs up the right side of the crest, stepping right at the top to gain a DBA in the gully to the right, and the routes on the West wall. Found immediately left of the sport access route up water worn black gully. Start up a crack on the left side of the black gully (bypassing bulges and overhangs on the orange rock of the buttress) then move up and left into a shallow corner. Over an overlap on a small cam, left at the next roof and right around/over the final roof, steep! Grade, bolt # & length tentative (forgotten), 1 pitch (30m?) P1 20 3 Trad
T	TTalon, 15	15			0
The easiest access to the West Wing (the western aspect of Red Rock Buttress). Gear and maybe one bolt on average quality rock until a good shield/fin towards the top. Grade, length and bolt # tentative (details forgotten). P1 15
M	MMoonbeak, 21	21		11	0
Unclimbed sport pitch up beautiful dark grey waterworn rock. Gains the hanging gully to the right of Red Rock butress and the West Wing (Western wall of Red Rock Buttress) . Number of bolts is tentative. about 30m from memory. Finishes at DBA (shared with The Orange Flash). Grade is a complete guess (required by website). P1 21 11
Na	NaNature, 18	18	80m		2.01
Above a cluster of access pitch options (Talon, The Orange flash, unnamed) is a gully on the West side of Red Rock Buttress. From here, routes on the beautiful sweep of shining orange/red schist of the NW face of Red Rock Buttress ('The West Wing') can be climbed. A short scramble up the gully gains a bolted anchor on the left and the first routes (Nature & Nurture). A rap anchor (DBA) for descent back into the gully is available at the back of the platform (climbers right on the same wall). For a climb of consistent difficulty, at a surprisingly easy grade for the steepness of the wall, the DNA linkup (P1 Nature, P2 Nurture) is highly recommended (grade 16). P1 16 40m Trad P1: Start at the first bolt anchor on the left wall of the gully. Up a beautiful shallow groove on natural gear until the obvious (gear) belay alcove over halfway up the wall. Length The right-hand groove was favored on the FA. Length tentative (not remembered). P2 18 40m P2: Out the right side of the belay alcove and through steep, exciting terrain on surprisingly great holds. Gear placements may be spaced out. Length tentative (not remembered). Belay at the flat platform atop Red Rock Buttress.
Nu	NuNurture, 18	18			2.01
Above a cluster of access pitch options (Talon, The Orange flash, unnamed) is a gully on the West side of Red Rock Buttress. From here, this route on the beautiful sweep of shining orange/red schist of the NW face of Red Rock Buttress ('The West Wing') can be climbed. A short scramble up the gully gains a bolted anchor on the left and the first routes (Nature & Nurture). A rap anchor (DBA) for descent back into the gully is available at the back of the platform (climbers right on the same wall). For a climb of consistent grade 18, the Nurture-Nature linkup is recommended (stay right: P1 Nurture, P2 Nature). P1 18 Trad 5m up and right from the belay bolts below Nature is this right-facing crack. Follow to the belay alcove (gear). P2 16 Trad From the left side of the belay alcove, break out and go directly up a groove in the wall above. Belay at the platform atop Red Rock Buttress.

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