2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Canterbury
  5. Ben Ohau Range
  6. Mt Lloyd
  7. Pyramid Face

Pyramid Face

(3 routes)

(L to R) Ozone Free, Face to Face, Squirrel, Seagull

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Access: 

These are on the northern side of the spur after Shadows and Craig. Continue up into the basin between Mt Cran and the Mt Lloyd outlier buttress.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1.19 Ozone Free 17 , 17 , 21 , 15 , 9 155m
0
 wire representing trad
This route starts in a small alcove a couple of metres up on the left side of the wall, just right of black argillite bands, climbs a slab passes through two overlap/roofs to each the summit. Pitch 1 grade 17, 40 m
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11740mYes
 This route starts in a small alcove a couple of metres up on the left side of the wall, just right of black argillite bands, climbs a slab passes through two overlap/roofs to each the summit. Pitch 1 grade 17, 40 m
21725mYes
 pitch 2 grade 17, 25 m
32120mYes
 pitch 3 grade 21, 20 m
41540mYes
 pitch 4 grade 15, 40 m
5930mYes
 pitch 5 grade 9, 30 m – hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side.
Kane Hartill, Nick Sheen, December 1996
1.20 Face to Face 18 , 19 , 19 , 9 165m
0
 wire representing trad
First belay stance 2-3 metres up groove in middle of wall, 15 metres right of Ozone Free. Pitch 1 grade 18, 50 m up slab following groove crack system and around right edge of overhang.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11850mYes
 First belay stance 2-3 metres up groove in middle of wall, 15 metres right of Ozone Free. Pitch 1 grade 18, 50 m up slab following groove crack system and around right edge of overhang.
21945mYes
 Pitch 2 grade 19 45 m, skirt right around headwall then up arête and onto face.
31940mYes
 Pitch 3 grade 19, 40 m, climbs a fine arête to the bulge then left to gain final face. Trend left up face to airy belay at top of peak.
4930mYes
 Pitch 4 - as per pitch 5 Ozone Free. Grade 9, 30 m – hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side.
Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996
Express Way 16
0
Follow a line up a textbook arête for two pitches before joining FtF at that route’s third pitch. It is a slightly easier alternative to the other routes on the face. It consists of 200 metres of good pink rock.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, Rodger Hodson, Grag Larkin, 2012

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