Type:
Alpine
Description:
On the central buttress of the South Face of the Mt Lloyd outlier and left of
Shadows. A 12 pitch route with crux at grade 17/18. The climb begins by
taking a rising traverse to break through a short steep wall. After
surmounting two gendarmes, take the right hand gray wall to reach the main
ridge. Scramble to foot of orange slab and climb the 60m crack. Continue up
to ledges, scramble right on ledge, and finish up steep rock breaking through
overlaps.
Andy Macfarlane’s description of Craig. Dated 8/2/1995.
1. Start at apex of the buttress. Rising traverse left to break through short
steep wall. Up. Grade 15
2. 2, 3, 4 Up
5. Ends atop the first gendarme. 13
6. Traverse gendarmes. 15
7. Take the right hand grey wall following the line of weakness. Gain the
main ridge. 16
Scramble into gully to foot of the orange slab.
8. 60m up the crack that splits the orange slab. 15
9. Up the corner bounding the right side of the rising slab. 15
10. Up to ledges. Scramble down ledge to the right.
11. Up steep rock breaking through overlaps. 17.
12. Scramble to start of crag.
Reference:
E
Pitch(es):
# | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 4+ | 0m | No |
Grade:
4+
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
0m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
0
Ascent:
Peter Darby, Andy Macfarlane, December 1994
UUID:
37869e93-5762-41d6-aace-8f17e25e3397