On the central buttress of the South Face of the Mt Lloyd outlier and left of Shadows. A 12 pitch route with crux at grade 17/18. The climb begins by taking a rising traverse to break through a short steep wall. After surmounting two gendarmes, take the right hand gray wall to reach the main ridge. Scramble to foot of orange slab and climb the 60m crack. Continue up to ledges, scramble right on ledge, and finish up steep rock breaking through overlaps. Andy Macfarlane’s description of Craig. Dated 8/2/1995. 1. Start at apex of the buttress. Rising traverse left to break through short steep wall. Up. Grade 15 2. 2, 3, 4 Up 5. Ends atop the first gendarme. 13 6. Traverse gendarmes. 15 7. Take the right hand grey wall following the line of weakness. Gain the main ridge. 16 Scramble into gully to foot of the orange slab. 8. 60m up the crack that splits the orange slab. 15 9. Up the corner bounding the right side of the rising slab. 15 10. Up to ledges. Scramble down ledge to the right. 11. Up steep rock breaking through overlaps. 17. 12. Scramble to start of crag.
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Peter Darby, Andy Macfarlane, December 1994