Mt Edgar Thomson

(7 routes)

The mountain was first climbed in 1915 by Mrs Jane Thompson and Guide Conrad Kain. Mrs Thompson was a pioneer woman alpinist who completed many climbs in the Mt Cook region, and in 1916 at the age of 60, made a grand traverse of Mt Cook. Her son Edgar died as a result of an injury sustained while playing football.

-43.779000000000, 170.063900000000
D40 943 953
CB08 842 335
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
North Face III 2+
From the upper reaches of Hoophorn Stream follow a steep snow lead to reach the ridge close to the summit. The first ascent is reputed to have been completed by moonlight after a pub session had concluded the face was overdue an ascent!
Richard Whiteley, July 1971
North Rib 2+
Climb the vague rib which begins at Hoophorn Stream and runs up the centre of the north flank.
H Muller, O Van Allman, 1973
North Face Variant 2+
Begin at the base of the original North Face route, but instead of following the gully, move right onto a vague rib to the west of the other routes. Good rock on the lower half, but angles back and becomes more shattered higher up. Avoids the worst of the avalanche danger. Reaches ridge about 200m west of the summit.
Luke Barrett, late Oct 2011
East Ridge 2
From the Hoophorn Stream scramble to the saddle west of Mt Hodgkinson, then travel up the ridge and snowslope to the summit. The connecting ridge to Mt Sealy provides excellent alpine rockclimbing. The summit of Edgar Thomson provides a superb viewpoint into the Dobson Valley, Aoraki Mt Cook National Park, and the McKenzie Basin.
Jane Thomson, Conrad Kain, April 1915
South Face 2
Travel up Birch Hill Stream until past the last sub-alpine vegetation, then angle up the steep lower slopes and the snowfield to the summit.
J A Roberts, C Williams, March 1925
South Ridge 1
From Jamieson Saddle travel for 2 kilometres along the ridge to the summit.
Charlie Collins, David Hall, Priestly Thomson, March 1946
West Face
Drift rightwards enjoying 500m of exposed scrambling on mainly good rock all the way to the South Summit.
Tim and Reg 13 Feb 2012