Mt Edgar Thomson

The base of this route is easily accessible from Jamieson Saddle. Scramble up mainly good, exposed rock on the central pillar of the west buttress leading to the subsidiary south-west peak. Follow the ridge to the main summit.

Head up Birch Hill Stream to Jamieson Saddle. From the saddle, follow a meandering and pleasant ridge to the summit.

Travel up Birch Hill Stream until past the last sub-alpine vegetation, then angle up the steep lower slopes to gain snowfields which are followed to the summit.

A very enjoyable day trip, often feasible when the Main Divide is clagged in during a north-wester. Travel up lower Hoophorn Stream and head up the second side stream on the true right (at about 1000m). Once above the scrub line, traverse back towards the left on a tussock terrace, and then climb to the saddle near Pt 1488m. From the saddle, climb west up the ridge until a noticeable increase in gradient (at about 1920m). This steep section can be climbed direct, but most people avoid it by sidling out onto the South Face and zig-zagging up on snow fields to re-join the ridge about 100m below the summit. Descend either the same route or the South Ridge.

Climb the vague rib on the North East Face that begins in the true right of the upper Hoophorn basin and runs up the centre of the face.

From the upper reaches of Hoophorn Stream follow a steep snow lead to reach the ridge close to the summit. The first ascent is reputed to have been completed by moonlight after a pub session had concluded the face was overdue an ascent! Not recommended without snow/ice cover.

Begin at the base of the Whiteley Woute, but instead of following the gully, move right onto a vague rib. Good rock on the lower half, but angles back and becomes more shattered higher up. This route avoids the worst of the avalanche danger, and reaches the ridge about 200m north-west of the summit.