Remarkable Dykes

(5 routes)

These are two impressive trachyte dykes running up the hillside on the south side of Lyttelton Harbour. They have been climbed on since the '30s, but despite the amount of steep rock, there is not much scope for good climbing. Five good routes, including the classic **Angels' Pavement, are known.
Recommended access is from the Kaituna Valley and Kaituna Saddle. Approaching from McQueens Valley side may earn you the wrath of a Mr Harneiss. All the routes are on the east side of the western dyke.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
300m
Aspect: 
North
Lat/Lon: 
-43.703625350000, 172.685982740000
NZMS260: 
M36 847226
Topo50: 
BX24 747 610
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Fallen Angel 15 22m
0
Starts at a minor R-facing corner on the L of the wall. Up to a ledge, and steep exit crack with loose blocks.
Stu Allan c'73
Deo Volente 14 18m
0
A vague crack about 3m R. From the ledge continue up the arete.
Stu Allan c'73
Avatar 16 18m
0
Climb the wall R of D.V. to a ledge, then up a short wall to join the finish of Angels' Pavement.
Graeme Love '83
Angels' Pavement 13 40m
2.01
A classic route up the the main arete of the upper part of the dyke. An almost alpine experience dating back to the '30s. Start from the low point in the upper part of the dyke.
Good Shepherd 12 8m
0
A direct route up the wall just R of the obvious easy R-facing corner in the middle of the north wall. Steep but with good holds.
Lindsay Main '77

Comments

There's an awesome scramble all the way from the Gebbies pass-Packhorse hut track to the top: follow the top of the West dyke and finish with Angels' pavement. Grade about 12 for the lower sections, on fairly good rock. Alternative easier start up the Eastern dyke, joining the West dyke at the chockstone.