These are two impressive trachyte dykes running up the hillside on the south side of Lyttelton Harbour. They have been climbed on since the '30s, but despite the amount of steep rock, there is not much scope for good climbing. Five good routes, including the classic **Angels' Pavement, are known.
Recommended access is from the Kaituna Valley and Kaituna Saddle. Approaching from McQueens Valley side may earn you the wrath of a Mr Harneiss. All the routes are on the east side of the western dyke.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Fallen Angel, 15 | 15 | 22m | |||||
Starts at a minor R-facing corner on the L of the wall. Up to a ledge, and
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Deo Volente, 14 | 14 | 18m | |||||
A vague crack about 3m R. From the ledge continue up the arete.
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Avatar, 16 | 16 | 18m | |||||
Climb the wall R of D.V. to a ledge, then up a short wall to join the finish
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Angels' Pavement, 13 | 13 | 40m | |||||
A classic route up the the main arete of the upper part of the dyke. An
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Good Shepherd, 12 | 12 | 8m | |||||
A direct route up the wall just R of the obvious easy R-facing corner in the
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There's an awesome scramble all the way from the Gebbies pass-Packhorse hut track to the top: follow the top of the West dyke and finish with Angels' pavement. Grade about 12 for the lower sections, on fairly good rock. Alternative easier start up the Eastern dyke, joining the West dyke at the chockstone.