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About 50m right of the central buttress is this 80m slab. Scramble up the scrubby low angle arete and/or adjacent gully for about 70m to the ledge behind the manukas (fixed line for the upper 30m).
nice climbing right off the anchor on well featured slabby terrain.
crux at the small roof.
shortest pitch. Circle the stacked blocks at the base of the overhanging face. Two or three steep moves on the face (V1/2ish?), then easy slab climbing to the last anchors.
The Unholy Grail
17 ,16 ,19
Gary Kearns, Gabriel Lincourt, Rowan Sinton, 2007