Long slabs and high red faces hidden in a picturesque valley on the south side of the Banks Peninsula. There are three of the longest routes near Christchurch here, with three pitches each. A bit of a drive and bush-bash to get to, but well worth it if you like bolted slabs and exposed sport routes.
The cliffs themselves are in the DoC Devils Gap Reserve, but the paddocks crossed for access are privately owned by the Pattullo family. The farmers, Dave and Ryan, are happy to allow access as long as the usual farm protocols regarding gates, stock, dogs, etc are observed. Avoid this area during lambing (Sep-Oct). PERMISSION IS REQUIRED, so contact the farm before climbing here by phoning Ryan at 325 1126, or Dave at 325 1305.
From Christchurch, just before entering Little River township, turn right onto Kinloch Rd. Drive past the Okuti Valley Road turn off, continuing up Kinloch Road to Bossu Road. Follow Bossu Rd eastward ~5-6 kms to the 4-way intersection. Turn right, down into Peraki Valley. Halfway down the valley park at the stock pens on the left, and cross the paddocks following the fence line. From the stream go up through the manuka, cross the paddocks through a gap in the bush, and head up the end of the paddock to the Reserve. Cross the fence and find the track to the cliffs. Currently (2008!) there are two orange tape markers in the bush about 30 metres from the fence. Past the second tape at a cairn, turn directly up the hill to a clearing, from which orange flagging tape leads to the cliffs at the base of 30 Pieces Of Silver. The track along the base of the cliff is very rough.
Reminder
Permission must be obtained before crossing the farm to the crag.
Farm closure
From 21st March to 4th April 2022 the farm will be closed for mustering wild goats. NO ACCESS DURING THIS PERIOD. There will also be a closure from late April to July for a hunting operation to cull goats that are not caught in the muster.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Leipziger | 17 | 30m | 8 |
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| Stairway To Heaven | 16 | 40m | 6 |
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| Lovin' Lickin' the Lichen | 16 | 40m | 9 |
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| Crown Of Thorns | 21 | 68m | 6 |
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| 30 Pieces Of Silver | 22 | 75m | 11 |
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| The Unholy Grail | 19 | 75m | 8 |
Posted by: Grant Piper
Edited by: Lindsay Main
Comments
It would be good to update access description. I suggest mentioning that once you have gone through the gap in the trees turn right and head to the top of the paddock where there is a small grass clearing on the reserve side of the fence. Tucked in the bush is the cairn on the boulder. I added another cairn on a large boulder in the small clearing by the fence. Most of the flagging tape has long gone in the bottom section of the track but if you take a direct line up hill you will probably pick them up again.
Introduction to Leipziger expanded; descent information edited.
Thank You
Access details edited for clarification. Grant's topo replaced by Gabe's original topo.