Peraki Valley

(6 routes)

Long slabs and high red faces hidden in a picturesque valley on the south side of the Banks Peninsula. Two of the longest routes near Christchurch were put up here in 06/07, and there is plenty of territory left to develop. A bit of a drive and bush-bash to get to, but well worth it if you like bolted slabs and exposed sport routes.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
300m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
45 mins
Access: 

The cliffs themselves are in the DoC Devils Gap Reserve, but the paddocks are privately owned. The farmer, Dave Patello, is happy to allow access as long as the usual farm protocols regarding gates, stock, dogs, etc are observed. Avoid this area during lambing (Sep-Oct). PERMISSION REQUIRED so please contact the farm before climbing here by phoning 325 1305.

From Christchurch, just before entering Little River township, turn right into Okuti Valley Rd. Head up Kinloch Road, to Bossu Road. Follow Bossu Rd east ~5-6kms to the 4-way intersection. Turn right, down into Peraki Valley. Park at the stock pens on the left, and cross the paddocks following the fence line. From the stream go up through the manuka, cross the paddocks through a gap in the bush, and head up the end of the paddock to the Reserve. Cross the fence and find the track to the cliffs. Currently (2008!) there are two orange tape markers in the bush about 30 metres from the fence. Past the second tape at a cairn, turn directly up the hill to a clearing, from which orange flagging tape leads to the cliffs at the base of 30 Pieces Of Silver. The track along the base of the cliff is very rough.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.826180000000, 172.835630000000
NZMS260: 
N37 968 090
Topo50: 
BY24 868 474
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Leipziger 17 30m
0
8bolts
The first three routes are on the triangular slab on the far left side of the crag. This is the left-most route on the slab. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge just below the first bolt. The route steepens near the top and finishes to the left of the roof. A 60 metre rope will reach the base of the climb. With a 50 metre rope, abseil to the mid station on Stairway.
Gary Kearns, 2008
Stairway To Heaven 14 ,16 40m
0
9bolts 2
A bit right of centre, step out from behind the Manuka tree to find the first bolt. Pretty much self explanatory from there.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11425m6No
 A bit right of centre, step out from behind the Manuka tree to find the first bolt. Pretty much self explanatory from there.
21615m3No
 Some nice thin moves. Abseil from the fixed sling around a tree.
Gabriel Lincourt, Paul Thompson, 2007
Lovin' Lickin' the Lichen 16 40m
0
9bolts 2
The arching route on the right side of the triangular slab. Starting at the far right edge of the slab, climb up the narrow buttress. Traverse left across the very low angled slab and out over the gulley. Continue straight up past the last couple bolts to the trees. Delicate climbing.
Gabriel Lincourt, 2008
Crown Of Thorns 21 ,17 ,13 68m
0
14bolts
Start up a mossy slab or scramble up on the left to a ledge, and then move up to clip a high first bolt. Some good moves on clean rock lead to the crux at a bulge, which is followed by nice slab climbing with a bit of a run-out to the anchor.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12125m6No
 Start up a mossy slab or scramble up on the left to a ledge, and then move up to clip a high first bolt. Some good moves on clean rock lead to the crux at a bulge, which is followed by nice slab climbing with a bit of a run-out to the anchor.
21728m5No
 Continue up an easy-angled narrow tongue of rock beside vegetation and move left to steeper pocketed rock, trending left past the scrub and up to the anchor.
31315m3No
 Walk about five metres right along the ledge to a broadleaf and set up the anchor here. Climb a crack past a manuka and traverse leftward across the slab, and up to the anchor at the base of the corner. A further pitch is possible.
Lindsay Main, Felix Collins, 2013.
30 Pieces Of Silver 21 ,22 ,10 75m
0
24bolts 1
Hard start leads to easy slab climbing, followed by a steep bulge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12125m10No
 Hard start leads to easy slab climbing, followed by a steep bulge.
22225m11No
 Up the arete, quality climbing
31025m3No
 Scramble up the slab.
Gabriel Lincourt, Rowan Sinton, Gary Kearns, 2007
The Unholy Grail 17 ,16 ,19 75m
0
24bolts
About 50m right of the central buttress is this 80m slab. Scramble up the scrubby low angle arete and/or adjacent gully for about 70m to the ledge behind the manukas (fixed line for the upper 30m). nice climbing right off the anchor on well featured slabby terrain.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725m8No
 About 50m right of the central buttress is this 80m slab. Scramble up the scrubby low angle arete and/or adjacent gully for about 70m to the ledge behind the manukas (fixed line for the upper 30m). nice climbing right off the anchor on well featured slabby terrain.
21625m8No
 crux at the small roof.
31925m8No
 shortest pitch. Circle the stacked blocks at the base of the overhanging face. Two or three steep moves on the face (V1/2ish?), then easy slab climbing to the last anchors.
Gary Kearns, Gabriel Lincourt, Rowan Sinton, 2007
Attribution: 
Information: Gabriel Lincourt Posted by: Grant Piper Edited by: Lindsay Main

Comments

Introduction to Leipziger expanded; descent information edited.

Thank You

Access details edited for clarification. Grant's topo replaced by Gabe's original topo.