Middle Buttress

(16 routes)

The centre of three detached cliffs left of the Main Cliff. The dominant feature of the crag is the left-facing corner of Reprobate, left of a buttress with red lichen.

Altitude: 
755m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West
Walk time: 
10 mins
Access: 

Continue along the track from the Main Cliff past the Right-hand Buttress, or traverse around from the Left-hand Buttress.

DBAs exist at the top of Reprobate, Nostalgia's Not What It Used To Be, and 3 Two 1.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Splitting Hairs 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
Short route at the far left, on grey rock. Climb a crack splitting the block; then step right and up the arête over horizontal cracks. Short but grim descent to the left through the scrub.
Lindsay Main, 2012
Fawkes 16
0
wire representing trad
Follow the slightly leftward trending groove for 10 metres, then move right to a ledge.
Alan Hill and Linda Broad 5/11/94
Avant Gardener 18
0
wire representing trad
Goes up the smooth prow. Start on the left and boulder up to the ledge, placing microwires left and below. Gain the ledge, with good wires in the crack. Climb on the left and place more micros above. Continue up past horizontal breaks with cams and anchor to a large block at the top. This climb is well-protected apart from the start, but expertise with microwires is required.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Fl Fluffy 15 18m
0
wire representing trad
Start at a small platform three metres left of Reprobate. Pull up steeply on positive holds (crux) with a small cam to the left to gain the corner. Then to the ledge and past a small roof to finish up a short corner and wall. Step right to the anchor for Reprobate.
Tim Wethey, 1978
Ro Reprobate 16 18m
0
wire representing trad
The most prominent line on the crag. From the same platform crash over the scrub to the easy-angled left-facing corner beside a buttress covered in red lichen. Easy climbing to a ledge, where it steepens with a thin crack for protection. Ring anchors at the top of the corner.
Lindsay Main, 1978
Renegade 17 22m
0
wire representing trad
From the foot of Reprobate move right a metre, then climb the groove and wall above. At the ledge climb the groove just left of the prow to a horizontal crack, and then up the crack (crux) and pull around on to the prow to finish at the anchor.
Alan Hill, 1994 (start), Lindsay Main, 2014 (finish)
Recidivist 18 22m
0
wire representing trad
Slightly contrived, being squeezed into the central part of the buttress. Use the Nostalgia crack for the first piece of gear and then up to the overhang and pull through slightly left to the slab. Climb the prow directly (16, Justin Hall 2013) to a nice stance and two-bolt anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2014
NU Nostalgia's Not What It Used To Be 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
Up the right side of the buttress to a semi-detached flake (protection), and straight on up past the right side of the summit nose directly to the anchors.
Lindsay Main, 2012
RB Route 10
0
wire representing trad
7 metres to the right is a wide groove climbed on the righthand side.
Hamish Reid and Linda Broad 29/10/94
Just One Scoop 13
0
Climbs the bulge and easy-angled wall 2 metres to the right of RB Route
Alan Hill, solo 29/10/94
Impetuosity 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
Four metres right. Climb the easy prow with protection from a small totara to the left, then up past a ledge with good cracks leading to the top.
Lindsay Main, 2012.
Four Steps 15 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start on the second rib to the right and scramble to a vegetated ledge. Bridge up with gear on the left wall in a horizontal crack, but step right onto a block. Muscle up a steep crack (high step – crux) to gain the main ledge, and finish up corners and cracks to the summit. Walk down to the Renegade/Recidivist anchor.
Hugh Logan, 2014
LaT Ohhh! Look a thunderstorm! 15 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start a few meters left of 32. First pro at 6-7m, follow the leftward crack, then keep traverse to your left to reach a big crack that leads to the main ledge. Pleasant and easy finish to the summit (Probably shared with Four Steps). Lots of placements but lots of loose rocks and flakes as well. Climbed in a hurry while a big thunderstorm was crossing the Harbour...
Minke Unwin and Robin Jodon, October 2018
Just In Time 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for 3 Two 1 with the small cam placement, but move left and climb the corner-crack. Step right to the ledge and over a block before tacking the headwall as per 3 Two 1.
Hugh Logan, 2015
32 3 two 1 16 15m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, climb this sticking to the arête to tackle an overhang on good holds. A small friend protects the start.
Justin Hall, 20 April 2014
Russian Bear 15 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, on its right hand side a crack leads easily up to a ledge under a short steep wall with a bolt and good holds.
Justin Hall, 20 April 2014
Attribution: 
Alan Hill