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The Castle

Type
Altitude
650m
Part of

An outcrop to the right,  of the Main Wall, past a gully. Sadly has now collapsed leaving unstable rock still to come down .

Image
Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Thermoclime, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

The following two routes are on the next buttress to the R, beyond the vegetated gulley. There are two thin cracks. Make hard moves using both cracks to start, then move up and L to LH crack. Follow until it scunges out, then traverse R to the arete above the roof at 2/3rds height.


 30 Degrees and Rising Unsteadily, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

Start as for Thermoclime but continue directly up to over the roof to the top.


 The Boston Strangler, 15 15 15m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • Trad

A prominent jam crack facing into the gully. Good holds on the outside of the crack.


SA SASatyr, 14 14 15m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 15m
  • Trad

Another crack in the gully with outside holds.


 Rattle And Hum, 19 19 20m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • Trad

Starts up a crack and continues up the wall above. Scramble onto a ledge and climb the smooth groove and crack. Pull right at the overhang (horizontal cam), and climb up on good holds to the lower angled face, protected with spaced small wires.


Gu GuGuillotine, 16 16 18m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

A prominent V-corner facing north with a large semi-detached blade. Jam and layback past the blade (crux), then easier jamming to the finish. A classic route marred only by huge loose blocks at the top. Nick Cradock '75 (one aid point), FFA Murray Judge.


 Guillotine Rehoned, 16 16 18m
1.02

The classic Guillotine was two thirds dismantled by earthquake damage. It has been ground back revealing some exquisite new edges on the clean rock at the top. Start up the awkward original start for Guillotine. Once on the ledge head straight up the corner on nice edges with small wires for protection.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

 Hannibal Lecter, 22 22 20m
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • Trad

Thin crack-line, finish up the arête and face.


HC HCHenry Crippen, 18 18 16m
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 16m
  • Trad

The R of two thin cracks. Technical climbing in the crack followed by an exit to the R over blocks and up the gully.


 Crippen Direct, 19 19 12m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 12m
  • Trad

Climb Henry Crippen, and continue up the wall on the left. Spaced pro from small wires.


 Son of Sam, 17 17 20m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • Trad

A short jam crack with an offwidth crux at the top. Finish up the gully.


 Jack the Ripper, 14 14 20m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 20m
  • Trad

Obscure and slightly contrived. Start up an inconspicuous crack and step R to another crack (crux). Then up the edge above and finish in the gully.


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UUID
 
8eb32565-b550-47ba-9f81-8c1ab9037672