The Castle

An outcrop to the right, of the Main Wall, past a gully. Sadly has now collapsed leaving unstable rock still to come down .

Altitude:

650m

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

North

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Gone
	Thermoclime	21		0
	The following two routes are on the next buttress to the R, beyond the vegetated gulley. There are two thin cracks. Make hard moves using both cracks to start, then move up and L to LH crack. Follow until it scunges out, then traverse R to the arete above the roof at 2/3rds height. Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
	30 Degrees and Rising Unsteadily	21		0
	Start as for Thermoclime but continue directly up to over the roof to the top. Sefton Priestly & Alan Hill 9/2/98
	The Boston Strangler	15	15m	1.02
	A prominent jam crack facing into the gully. Good holds on the outside of the crack. Lindsay Main '77
SA	Satyr	14	15m	0
	Another crack in the gully with outside holds. Bryan Dyson '77
	Rattle And Hum	19	20m	0
	Starts up a crack and continues up the wall above. Scramble onto a ledge and climb the smooth groove and crack. Pull right at the overhang (horizontal cam), and climb up on good holds to the lower angled face, protected with spaced small wires. Lindsay Main, 2009
Gu	Guillotine	16	18m	1.02	1	2
	A prominent V-corner facing north with a large semi-detached blade. Jam and layback past the blade (crux), then easier jamming to the finish. A classic route marred only by huge loose blocks at the top. Nick Cradock '75 (one aid point), FFA Murray Judge.
	Guillotine Rehoned	16	18m	1.02
	The classic Guillotine was two thirds dismantled by earthquake damage. It has been ground back revealing some exquisite new edges on the clean rock at the top. Start up the awkward original start for Guillotine. Once on the ledge head straight up the corner on nice edges with small wires for protection. Felix Collins 14 March 2020
	Hannibal Lecter	22	20m	0
	Thin crack-line, finish up the arête and face. Richard Kimberley, 2001
HC	Henry Crippen	18	16m	1.02		1
	The R of two thin cracks. Technical climbing in the crack followed by an exit to the R over blocks and up the gully. Henry Mares '78
	Crippen Direct	19	12m	0
	Climb Henry Crippen, and continue up the wall on the left. Spaced pro from small wires. Joe Arts, 1995
	Son of Sam	17	20m	0
	A short jam crack with an offwidth crux at the top. Finish up the gully. Lindsay Main '77
	Jack the Ripper	14	20m	0
	Obscure and slightly contrived. Start up an inconspicuous crack and step R to another crack (crux). Then up the edge above and finish in the gully. Lindsay Main '78