The Castle

(11 routes)

An outcrop to the right,  of the Main Wall, past a gully. Sadly has now collapsed leaving unstable rock still to come down .

Altitude: 
650m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Thermoclime 21
0
wire representing trad
The following two routes are on the next buttress to the R, beyond the vegetated gulley. There are two thin cracks. Make hard moves using both cracks to start, then move up and L to LH crack. Follow until it scunges out, then traverse R to the arete above the roof at 2/3rds height.
Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
30 Degrees and Rising Unsteadily 21
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Thermoclime but continue directly up to over the roof to the top.
Sefton Priestly & Alan Hill 9/2/98
The Boston Strangler 15 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
A prominent jam crack facing into the gully. Good holds on the outside of the crack.
Lindsay Main '77
SA Satyr 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
Another crack in the gully with outside holds.
Bryan Dyson '77
Rattle And Hum 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
Starts up a crack and continues up the wall above. Scramble onto a ledge and climb the smooth groove and crack. Pull right at the overhang (horizontal cam), and climb up on good holds to the lower angled face, protected with spaced small wires.
Lindsay Main, 2009
Gu Guillotine 16 18m
1.02
1 wire representing trad 2
A prominent V-corner facing north with a large semi-detached blade. Jam and layback past the blade (crux), then easier jamming to the finish. A classic route marred only by huge loose blocks at the top. Nick Cradock '75 (one aid point), FFA Murray Judge.
Hannibal Lecter 22 20m
0
wire representing trad
Thin crack-line, finish up the arête and face.
Richard Kimberley, 2001
HC Henry Crippen 18 16m
1.02
wire representing trad 1
The R of two thin cracks. Technical climbing in the crack followed by an exit to the R over blocks and up the gully.
Henry Mares '78
Crippen Direct 19 12m
0
wire representing trad
Climb Henry Crippen, and continue up the wall on the left. Spaced pro from small wires.
Joe Arts, 1995
Son of Sam 17 20m
0
wire representing trad
A short jam crack with an offwidth crux at the top. Finish up the gully.
Lindsay Main '77
Jack the Ripper 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Obscure and slightly contrived. Start up an inconspicuous crack and step R to another crack (crux). Then up the edge above and finish in the gully.
Lindsay Main '78

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UUID: 
8eb32565-b550-47ba-9f81-8c1ab9037672

Comments

Some quake damage in the crag