The Castle | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

650m

Part of

An outcrop to the right, of the Main Wall, past a gully. Sadly the top section has collapsed in the 2010/11 earthquakes. Several of the original lines are gone completely or severely truncated. There is still good climbing to be had here, but use caution.

Aspect

North

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Thermoclime, 21	21		0
P1 21 Trad The following two routes are on the next buttress to the R, beyond the vegetated gulley. There are two thin cracks. Make hard moves using both cracks to start, then move up and L to LH crack. Follow until it scunges out, then traverse R to the arete above the roof at 2/3rds height.
	30 Degrees and Rising Unsteadily, 21	21		0
P1 21 Trad Start as for Thermoclime but continue directly up to over the roof to the top.
	The Boston Strangler, 15	15	15m	1.02
P1 15 15m Trad A prominent jam crack facing into the gully. Good holds on the outside of the crack.
SA	SASatyr, 14	14	15m	1.02
P1 14 15m Trad Another crack in the gully with outside holds.
	Rattle And Hum, 19	19	20m	0
P1 19 20m Trad Starts up a crack and continues up the wall above. Scramble onto a ledge and climb the smooth groove and crack. Pull right at the overhang (horizontal cam), and climb up on good holds to the lower angled face, protected with spaced small wires.
Gu	GuGuillotine, 16	16	18m	1.02
P1 16 18m Trad A prominent V-corner facing north with a large semi-detached blade. Jam and layback past the blade (crux), then easier jamming to the finish. A classic route marred only by huge loose blocks at the top. Nick Cradock '75 (one aid point), FFA Murray Judge.
	Guillotine Rehoned, 16	16	18m	1.02
The classic Guillotine was two thirds dismantled by earthquake damage. It has been ground back revealing some exquisite new edges on the clean rock at the top. Start up the awkward original start for Guillotine. Once on the ledge head straight up the corner on nice edges with small wires for protection. P1 16 18m Trad
	Hannibal Lecter, 22	22	20m	0
P1 22 20m Trad Thin crack-line, finish up the arête and face.
HC	HCHenry Crippen, 18	18	16m	1.02
P1 18 16m Trad The R of two thin cracks. Technical climbing in the crack followed by an exit to the R over blocks and up the gully.
	Crippen Direct, 19	19	12m	0
P1 19 12m Trad Climb Henry Crippen, and continue up the wall on the left. Spaced pro from small wires.
	Son of Sam, 17	17	20m	0
P1 17 20m Trad A short jam crack with an offwidth crux at the top. Finish up the gully.
	Jack the Ripper, 14	14	20m	0
P1 14 20m Trad Obscure and slightly contrived. Start up an inconspicuous crack and step R to another crack (crux). Then up the edge above and finish in the gully.