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Right Cliff

Type
Altitude
650m
Part of

The cliff that is level with the Main Cliff and to the right of The Caslte

Image
Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Endive, 17 17 8m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 8m
  • Trad

A wall climb with a thin crack at the bottom. Tend R at the start, with the crux move to reach the jugs. Step L onto the ledge and climb the short wall.


 M.C.P., 14 14 10m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

A steep crack with small holds.


 Earth Mother, 13 13 10m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 10m
  • Trad

A companion route to M.C.P.. The crack on the L wall of the gully. Varied climbing, dirty.


 Lesser Beast, 14 14 10m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

Another corner. Start on L to gain platform and bridge up the corner - delicate crux at the top with a move to the L.


 Golden Gate, 15 15 25m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • Trad

The vegetated gully with interesting jamming in the crack above.


GE GEGenesis, 16 16 20m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • Trad

The prominent NE-facing jam crack. From the ledge up over the bulge (crux). Murray Judge did the crack in '75 and Lindsay Main completed the route in '78.


EC ECEcclesiastes, 16 16 25m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

A groove with two thin cracks on the buttress. Hardest at the bottom. From the ledge at 20m, move R and finish up an awkward overhanging crack. Lindsay Main '77


 Hot Doggers 25m
0

  • P1
  • 25m
  • Trad

limbs the groove and arete with crack between Corinthian and Ecclesiates. A much cleaner line than Corinthian.


 Corinthian, 16 16 25m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

The central line in the prominent vegetated corner. Up the corner/crack, struggling over the bushes (crux of the vegetation). At the ledge move L and finish as for Ec. (crux of the rock). Not recommended.


 Deuteronomy, 14 14 25m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 25m
  • Trad

The crack on the R wall of the C. gully. Up to the platform and step R to the crack. Finish R as for Exodus, or try the Ec. finish.


OHP OHPOne Handed Poker, 21 21 15m
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • Trad

Thin finger and face crack up slight groove. Strenuous but good pro. Finish on ledge and rap off tree.


 Lamentations, 19 19 15m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • Trad

An innocent-looking crack on the L wall of the gully. When the crack peters out move R to Exodus or continue up the wall. Finish as for Ex..


 Exodus, 14 14 25m
1.02

  • P1
  • 14
  • 25m
  • Trad

The L crack in the corner. Up crack and L onto the ledge. Up over blocks and finish up the R side of the gully.


 Apocalypse, 17 17 22m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 22m
  • Trad

Start as for Ex. and jam up the R crack. Step round the roof to the R and exit in the easy corner above.


SO SOSolomon, 17 17 22m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 22m
  • Trad

Start as for A., but move R into the crack on the wall. Beware of loose blocks. Onto ledge, and finish as for A.


ZA ZAZaccharius, 16 16 18m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

The shallow groove, with two cracks at the start. Fairly sustained, eases towards the top.


 Titus, 16 16 13m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 13m
  • Trad

A shallow groove with a short steep jam crack. From the platform, over stacked blocks and vegetation.


 Thessolonians, 14 14 13m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 13m
  • Trad

Bridge up the broken crack to a platform. Up corner and over blocks above. A pleasant crack above is optional.


 Millenium Dome, 21 21 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4
  • Trad

Starts at the right side of the crag and right of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness, below a steep bulge a bolt low down marks the start. Climb the steep wall to a standing position above the second bolt. Move left on layaways to gain access to the shallow groove (third bolt) continue straight up to summit out above the fourth bolt. It is possible to walk off at the fourth bolt. Belay well back and well left on the on chain links as for Gravity Plus.


 Gravity Plus, 24 24 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 24
  • 5
  • Trad

Starts just right of the centre of the main face about four metres left of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness. Boulder up to the first bolt good holds, move up slightly left then directly up the wall to come back right at the third bolt on reasonable holds. Continue straight up as the climbing eases past the fourth and fifth bolts summit out and belay well back on chain links.


 Soft Option, 21 21 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Starts at the right side of the crag just left of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness with a vague crack on the left. Climb the steep wall and groove above. At the top of the groove continue over the small roof / overlap and up black slabby wall to finish. Belay well back and well left on the on chain links as for Gravity Plus.


 The Steep, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The short steep wall at the extreme right of the crag soloed, on site, to retrieve gear from the top of the crag. Boulder up the wall, short hanging corner on left is of some use, finish up the easy slab above.


Comments
wouter

Pretty overgrown at the base and scrambling through quake debris at bottom of Castle

Mon, 07/11/2011 - 20:29 Permalink
This place appears in
Attribution
Topos by Wouter Van Beershocten
UUID
 
5a6aaa4a-a8eb-40ee-9b34-7a1ebf56e436