Right Cliff

(22 routes)

The cliff that is level with the Main Cliff and to the right of The Caslte

Altitude: 
650m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Endive 17 8m
0
wire representing trad
A wall climb with a thin crack at the bottom. Tend R at the start, with the crux move to reach the jugs. Step L onto the ledge and climb the short wall.
Tim Wethey '78
M.C.P. 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
A steep crack with small holds.
Lindsay Main '78
Earth Mother 13 10m
0
wire representing trad
A companion route to M.C.P.. The crack on the L wall of the gully. Varied climbing, dirty.
Lindsay Main '78
Lesser Beast 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
Another corner. Start on L to gain platform and bridge up the corner - delicate crux at the top with a move to the L.
Lindsay Main '78
Golden Gate 15 25m
0
wire representing trad
The vegetated gully with interesting jamming in the crack above.
Lindsay Main '78
GE Genesis 16 20m
1.02
1 wire representing trad
The prominent NE-facing jam crack. From the ledge up over the bulge (crux). Murray Judge did the crack in '75 and Lindsay Main completed the route in '78.
EC Ecclesiastes 16 25m
0
wire representing trad
A groove with two thin cracks on the buttress. Hardest at the bottom. From the ledge at 20m, move R and finish up an awkward overhanging crack. Lindsay Main '77
Hot Doggers 25m
0
wire representing trad
limbs the groove and arete with crack between Corinthian and Ecclesiates. A much cleaner line than Corinthian.
Alan Hill & Hamish Reid 25.1.98.
Corinthian 16 25m
0
wire representing trad
The central line in the prominent vegetated corner. Up the corner/crack, struggling over the bushes (crux of the vegetation). At the ledge move L and finish as for Ec. (crux of the rock). Not recommended.
Lindsay Main '78
Deuteronomy 14 25m
0
wire representing trad
The crack on the R wall of the C. gully. Up to the platform and step R to the crack. Finish R as for Exodus, or try the Ec. finish.
Lindsay Main '78
OHP One Handed Poker 21 15m
0
wire representing trad
Thin finger and face crack up slight groove. Strenuous but good pro. Finish on ledge and rap off tree.
Nick Cradock '89
Lamentations 19 15m
0
wire representing trad
An innocent-looking crack on the L wall of the gully. When the crack peters out move R to Exodus or continue up the wall. Finish as for Ex..
Lindsay Main '79
Exodus 14 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
The L crack in the corner. Up crack and L onto the ledge. Up over blocks and finish up the R side of the gully.
Lindsay Main '77
Apocalypse 17 22m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Ex. and jam up the R crack. Step round the roof to the R and exit in the easy corner above.
Lindsay Main '79
SO Solomon 17 22m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for A., but move R into the crack on the wall. Beware of loose blocks. Onto ledge, and finish as for A.
Henry Mares '78
ZA Zaccharius 16 18m
1.02
wire representing trad 1
The shallow groove, with two cracks at the start. Fairly sustained, eases towards the top.
Lindsay Main '77
Titus 16 13m
0
wire representing trad
A shallow groove with a short steep jam crack. From the platform, over stacked blocks and vegetation.
Lindsay Main '77
Thessolonians 14 13m
0
wire representing trad
Bridge up the broken crack to a platform. Up corner and over blocks above. A pleasant crack above is optional.
Lindsay Main '77
Millenium Dome 21
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Starts at the right side of the crag and right of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness, below a steep bulge a bolt low down marks the start. Climb the steep wall to a standing position above the second bolt. Move left on layaways to gain access to the shallow groove (third bolt) continue straight up to summit out above the fourth bolt. It is possible to walk off at the fourth bolt. Belay well back and well left on the on chain links as for Gravity Plus.
Tony Burnell
Gravity Plus 24
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Starts just right of the centre of the main face about four metres left of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness. Boulder up to the first bolt good holds, move up slightly left then directly up the wall to come back right at the third bolt on reasonable holds. Continue straight up as the climbing eases past the fourth and fifth bolts summit out and belay well back on chain links.
Tony Burnell
Soft Option 21
1.02
4bolts
Starts at the right side of the crag just left of the obvious right trending ramp / weakness with a vague crack on the left. Climb the steep wall and groove above. At the top of the groove continue over the small roof / overlap and up black slabby wall to finish. Belay well back and well left on the on chain links as for Gravity Plus.
Tony Burnell
The Steep 18
0
wire representing trad
The short steep wall at the extreme right of the crag soloed, on site, to retrieve gear from the top of the crag. Boulder up the wall, short hanging corner on left is of some use, finish up the easy slab above.
Tony Burnell
Attribution: 
Topos by Wouter Van Beershocten

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Comments

Pretty overgrown at the base and scrambling through quake debris at bottom of Castle