The very obvious large cliff Descent:A Spike lower-off is available at 35m on Son of Hangman which would also be accessible to other routes beside it.Maybe take some more sling and a biner The walk off is also fairly easy down the gully between Main Cliff and The Castle with little gorse now (3/2014)
Altitude:
650m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| Craig's Wall | 22 | 12m |
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A bold lead with one bolt. Starts up the R of two cracks, then across to the L crack.
Ton Snelder '83
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| Straight and Narrow | 14 | 15m |
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A jam crack on the vegetated section of the cliff. Start on R side of a column to reach a ledge, then up the crack.
John Howard '78
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| Dead End | 15 | 15m |
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The crack to the R of S.&N..
Lindsay Main '78
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| G | Garlic | 15 | 10m |
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A fist crack which is steep at the bottom and vegetated at the top. Jam up to flake and move L to finish beside the flake and over vegetation.
John Howard '78
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| UE | Unlimited Edition | 22 | 14m |
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1 |
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Up intermittent cracks L of Easy Chimney with hard moves below the bolt runner.
Ton Snelder '83
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| Easy Chimney | 10 |
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The deep chimney, that can be used as a descent route.
Hugh Logan, Murray Judge, 1975
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| MA | Maggie | 19 | 15m |
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1 |
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Up the hand crack on L of the buttress until it runs out, then to bolt runner and up. Craig Hamilton '83
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| IM | Iron Man Direct Finish | 22 | 14m |
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1 |
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Climb the Iron Man crack to a fixed piton, then move L and up to join the bolt on Maggie. Craig Hamilton '83
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| Iron Man | 20 | 15m |
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Climb the steep thin crack on the R of the buttress until it runs out, then move R (crux) to join another crack.
John Howard, 1980
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| SU | Set Up | 18 | 15m |
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The L of three steep grooves, overhanging at the top. Enjoyable, sustained climbing.
James Jenkins '80
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| La Folie | 21 | 15m |
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1 |
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Up the arete with finger crack R of I.M. and through the small roof, then easier to the top. Bolt and fixed piton.
Ton Snelder '83
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| Spring of Discontent | 21 |
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Short arete R of L.F.. No runners on the arete, but cracks either side can be used.
Ton Snelder '83
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| Scratchy Crack | 14 | 18m |
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The central, heavily vegetated groove. One of the first routes here.
Hugh Logan '75
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| CC | Crime of the Century | 17 | 35m |
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The R groove. The first part of the climb, which is poorly protected, is the crux. After about 20m step R and follow the weakness, tending R. Lindsay Main '78
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| P | Prospero | 22 | 35m |
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1 |
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The crack between CC & SH.
Bolt at top where crack peters out
Manfred Oswald
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| SH | Son of Hangman | 17 | 35m |
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A classic route. The striking jam crack with a sizable roof at about 10m. Straight up the crack (crux) and through the roof on good holds. When the rock deteriorates, take the line of least resistance.
Rick McGregor '76
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| The Grey Ghost | 21 | 35m |
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Stats up twin cracks Rh of SoH, stepping R at 1st roof then L at 2nd to easier runout finish
Richard Kimberley, 99
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| TM | Thorn Mother | 26 | 35m |
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4 |
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Thin twin cracks left of WW. Up Lh crack until runs out at 3m, layback Rh
crack to horizontal break. Around 1st roof on the L to a bolt, traverse R
under 2nd roof, (BR), then up to skyline arete past 2 more (BR) to a ledge.
Richard Kimberley
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| WW | White Wizard | 22 | 35m |
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One of the best lines on the Peninsula - the corner right on the nose of the cliff. Sustained and technical climbing. Bridging and small holds in the corner (crux), with pleasant jamming through and above the overhang.
John Howard '79
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| Thin White Duke | 23 | 35m |
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Up the wall and through the large roof on the nose. Start on the R and move up L to the obvious good hold. Follow the groove to a sensational move centrally through the roof.
John Allen, 1979
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| Ju | Jubilee | 21 | 35m |
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The L of two steep crack systems that lead to a ledge at about 10m. Climb the flaring jam crack (crux), moving R after about 5m (a tussock inhibits progress - cleaning would enable the rests to be eliminated). From the ledge climb the crack until necessary to move R into Cripple Crack.
Lindsay Main '79
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| CC | Cripple Crack | 19 | 35m |
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The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing. The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing.
Lindsay Main '79
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| Staccato | 20 | 33m |
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A route up thin cracks. Difficult start. Technical climbing leads to a loose section, which is followed by a tricky exit. Finish in the vegetated gully.
Lindsay Main '80
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| Silver Lining | 19 | 30m |
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Another steep crack system. A committing start on the L wall to reach the crack, followed by technical climbing. The wide section is easy but poorly protected.
Lindsay Main '79
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| SF | Spring Fever | 19 | 30m |
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A groove with a thin crack and roof at about 8m. Hard chimneying to start, and a hard move through the roof from the R. Straightforward finish with another roof. Marty Beare '79
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| Fear of Frying | 18 |
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The groove R of Spring Fever, with pedastel at 3m. Direct to the top.
Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
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| Pop Goes The Weasel | 20 |
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Climb the next groove to the R, round the roof at 10m on good jams.
Alan Hill, unseconded 25/1/98
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| Floozie In The Jaccuzi | 20 |
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The twin thin cracks between PGTW and BITB, unfortunately joining BITB at the loose blocks.
Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
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| Bride in the Bath | 16 | 18m |
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Just what you've always wanted. A route up steep, vegetated cracks and grooves with loose blocks.
Henry Mares '77
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| Fillet of Calf | 17 |
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The arete R of BITB, with the crack that peters out at 8m. Continue up the arete, finishing up the overhanging crack in the skyline prow.
Sefton Priestly & Alan Hill, 9/2/98
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| Aegrotat | 10 |
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A steep slab on the Lh side of the Main Cliff/ Castle gully. Unprotected.
Rick McGregor '76
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