Main Wall

(31 routes)

The very obvious large cliff Descent:A Spike lower-off is available at 35m on Son of Hangman which would also be accessible to other routes beside it.Maybe take some more sling and a biner The walk off is also fairly easy down the gully between Main Cliff and The Castle with little gorse now (3/2014)

Altitude: 
650m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Craig's Wall 22 12m
0
wire representing trad
A bold lead with one bolt. Starts up the R of two cracks, then across to the L crack.
Ton Snelder '83
Straight and Narrow 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
A jam crack on the vegetated section of the cliff. Start on R side of a column to reach a ledge, then up the crack.
John Howard '78
Dead End 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
The crack to the R of S.&N..
Lindsay Main '78
G Garlic 15 10m
0
wire representing trad
A fist crack which is steep at the bottom and vegetated at the top. Jam up to flake and move L to finish beside the flake and over vegetation.
John Howard '78
UE Unlimited Edition 22 14m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Up intermittent cracks L of Easy Chimney with hard moves below the bolt runner.
Ton Snelder '83
Easy Chimney 10
0
wire representing trad
The deep chimney, that can be used as a descent route.
Hugh Logan, Murray Judge, 1975
MA Maggie 19 15m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Up the hand crack on L of the buttress until it runs out, then to bolt runner and up. Craig Hamilton '83
IM Iron Man Direct Finish 22 14m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Climb the Iron Man crack to a fixed piton, then move L and up to join the bolt on Maggie. Craig Hamilton '83
Iron Man 20 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the steep thin crack on the R of the buttress until it runs out, then move R (crux) to join another crack.
John Howard, 1980
SU Set Up 18 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
The L of three steep grooves, overhanging at the top. Enjoyable, sustained climbing.
James Jenkins '80
La Folie 21 15m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Up the arete with finger crack R of I.M. and through the small roof, then easier to the top. Bolt and fixed piton.
Ton Snelder '83
Spring of Discontent 21
0
wire representing trad
Short arete R of L.F.. No runners on the arete, but cracks either side can be used.
Ton Snelder '83
Scratchy Crack 14 18m
0
wire representing trad
The central, heavily vegetated groove. One of the first routes here.
Hugh Logan '75
CC Crime of the Century 17 35m
0
wire representing trad
The R groove. The first part of the climb, which is poorly protected, is the crux. After about 20m step R and follow the weakness, tending R. Lindsay Main '78
P Prospero 22 35m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The crack between CC & SH. Bolt at top where crack peters out
Manfred Oswald
SH Son of Hangman 17 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
A classic route. The striking jam crack with a sizable roof at about 10m. Straight up the crack (crux) and through the roof on good holds. When the rock deteriorates, take the line of least resistance.
Rick McGregor '76
The Grey Ghost 21 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
Stats up twin cracks Rh of SoH, stepping R at 1st roof then L at 2nd to easier runout finish
Richard Kimberley, 99
TM Thorn Mother 26 35m
2.01
4bolts wire representing trad
Thin twin cracks left of WW. Up Lh crack until runs out at 3m, layback Rh crack to horizontal break. Around 1st roof on the L to a bolt, traverse R under 2nd roof, (BR), then up to skyline arete past 2 more (BR) to a ledge.
Richard Kimberley
WW White Wizard 22 35m
3
wire representing trad
One of the best lines on the Peninsula - the corner right on the nose of the cliff. Sustained and technical climbing. Bridging and small holds in the corner (crux), with pleasant jamming through and above the overhang.
John Howard '79
Thin White Duke 23 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
Up the wall and through the large roof on the nose. Start on the R and move up L to the obvious good hold. Follow the groove to a sensational move centrally through the roof.
John Allen, 1979
Ju Jubilee 21 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
The L of two steep crack systems that lead to a ledge at about 10m. Climb the flaring jam crack (crux), moving R after about 5m (a tussock inhibits progress - cleaning would enable the rests to be eliminated). From the ledge climb the crack until necessary to move R into Cripple Crack.
Lindsay Main '79
CC Cripple Crack 19 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing. The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing.
Lindsay Main '79
Staccato 20 33m
0
wire representing trad
A route up thin cracks. Difficult start. Technical climbing leads to a loose section, which is followed by a tricky exit. Finish in the vegetated gully.
Lindsay Main '80
Silver Lining 19 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Another steep crack system. A committing start on the L wall to reach the crack, followed by technical climbing. The wide section is easy but poorly protected.
Lindsay Main '79
SF Spring Fever 19 30m
1.02
A groove with a thin crack and roof at about 8m. Hard chimneying to start, and a hard move through the roof from the R. Straightforward finish with another roof. Marty Beare '79
Fear of Frying 18
0
wire representing trad
The groove R of Spring Fever, with pedastel at 3m. Direct to the top.
Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
Pop Goes The Weasel 20
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the next groove to the R, round the roof at 10m on good jams.
Alan Hill, unseconded 25/1/98
Floozie In The Jaccuzi 20
0
wire representing trad
The twin thin cracks between PGTW and BITB, unfortunately joining BITB at the loose blocks.
Alan Hill & Sefton Priestly 9/2/98
Bride in the Bath 16 18m
0
wire representing trad
Just what you've always wanted. A route up steep, vegetated cracks and grooves with loose blocks.
Henry Mares '77
Fillet of Calf 17
0
wire representing trad
The arete R of BITB, with the crack that peters out at 8m. Continue up the arete, finishing up the overhanging crack in the skyline prow.
Sefton Priestly & Alan Hill, 9/2/98
Aegrotat 10
0
A steep slab on the Lh side of the Main Cliff/ Castle gully. Unprotected.
Rick McGregor '76

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