Pioneer Ridge

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Access the base of the route from the main lower track via a short branch that heads straight up in a small patch of bush where the main track continues left. Alternatively abseil the route from the anchor station on the ridge. Each pitch has its own name, and pitches may be linked differently in future to provide more variations. Having climbed the route it is possible to link to the routes on the small pillar just up the ridge, by walking down the gully to its base, or along the ridge a short distance and abseiling.
Reference: 
PR
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725m9No
 

Left Side
Start at the toe of the buttress left of the smooth section and trend left on to the rib. Crux just above third bolt, after which it eases back with good holds.

21828m10No
 

Step Across
Boulder up from the double ring anchors and then along the ridge a short way, then traversing right above a small roof, step across right and then easily up, before stepping across right again just above the small overlap (crux – there is a harder variation that steps across right higher up) and then up the rib on the right (delicate) to the double bolt anchors.

31422m6No
 

Easy Wall
Scramble over easy ground onto the featured wall and straight up on good holds to the double bolt anchor.

41825m8No
 

Long Slab
Climb on to the ledge above the anchor and up to the groove; stretch across to clip the bolts on the rib on the left. Continue up the rib past a small steep section, and move left to the anchor.

51315mYes
 

Egg Shell
Note that this pitch requires natural protection. From the double bolt anchor at the top of Long Slab, scramble over big blocks to a wide crack beside a small wall on the left, Using natural pro (cams) for the whole pitch, follow the crack for a few moves, then stepping up onto a featured wall directly to the double bolt anchors at the summit. On this pitch keep close to the left wall. The rock to the right of the crack is very hollow above a big gas pocket – a remarkable egg shell-like feature that could shatter if abused.

Grade: 
17,18,14,18,13
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
115m
Bolts: 
33
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Joe Arts, Hugh Logan, 2018.
UUID: 
cf021261-efac-4afa-9855-016cfdb8b7f9