Middlemarch

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
This route between the two original multi-pitch routes starts near Pioneer Ridge and finishes at The Road To Perdition, but is completely independent apart from five metres on the third pitch and the last two anchors.
Reference: 
M
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11630m8No
 

Starts just left of Pioneer Ridge. At the base of the slab scramble up leftward near the bush edge to the first bolt. Trend right following the weakness to the niche just right of the small overhang, beside the Pioneer Ridge line. Climb through the niche to a ledge and short slab leading to an overhang, which yields on large spaced holds. Continue up the rib to the two-ring anchor.

21730m8No
 

Scramble past the bushes to the slab and trend easily rightward where the wall steepens. Up a little and then head leftward to the slight bulge at the top of the wall (crux), with small holds to gain the upper slab. Then finish up the rib over a small bulge to the chain anchor at the ledge below the beginning of the Long Side Complete pitch of Pioneer Ridge.

31520m3No
 

Walk leftward across the terrace below the slab and rib of the Long Slab pitch of Pioneer Ridge to a slab with a steep start. Climb past two bolts on nice holds to gain the rib and the ledge above. Clip the third bolt on pitch 3 of the Road To Perdition and climb the rib the few metres to the anchor. This short section of the route and this anchor are shared with the Road To Perdition.

41628m4No
 

Scramble up the gully to the start of the slab on the right. Delicate moves to get going, followed by positive holds to the corner and scoop. Bridge up and lurch leftward past the two bolts to the ledge. Then walk along leftward to the chimney and bridge up with a step to the left, and easy climbing to the anchor.

Grade: 
16,17,15,16
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
108m
Bolts: 
23
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Hugh Logan, Lindsay Main, 2019
UUID: 
9c575765-ff54-4d28-b5df-0d4bd5d513b1