Natural pro requiredIt is possible to climb from the base of the Dragons Tail right up the main ridge, taking in various pitches from different walls en route. Though there are many possible variations, the “classic” combination described here starts up On The Edge and continues up the climbs closest to the main ridge.
The first Integral, in July 2019, took in a couple of bonus pitches, A Litany of Woe and Jungle Jim on Bobo Wall, instead of the more obvious and direct unroped pitch, Easy Way Home.
Among other options one of the multi-pitch routes could be climbed, before continuing up climbs on Split Buttress and Gaga, Bobo, and Karaka Walls. Depending on the combination, the total integral will include between six and ten pitches and one or two sections of scrambling.
- P1
- 14
- 60m
- 11
On The Edge Start at the lowest point of the Dragons Tail and climb leftward and up. Can be split into two pitches. Then abseil to the base of Deceitful Doris..
- P2
- 18
- 40m
- 7
- Trad
Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty Climb the prominent rib with one large cam to the ledge; then either up the crack with gear or follow the bolts further left.
- P3
- 15
- 15m
- 3
Gorseless Short pitch on the ridge.
- P4
- 16
- 15m
- 3
Failed Trad Climber On the Split Buttress, just left of the ridge with a faint crack. This is followed by a scrambling section up to Gaga Wall.
- P5
- 17
- 20m
The Hollow Man On Gaga Wall, just right of the ridge, beside a damp section of rock.
- P6
- 6
- 30m
Easy Way Home Bypassing Bobo Wall, this is a series of scrambling moves which can be readily climbed unroped. The highlight is the optional cheval section.
- P7
- 15
- 12m
- Trad
Karaka Obvious classic left-leaning crack. If gear is not carried, Critical Mass can be climbed instead.
