The Integral

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
It is possible to climb from the base of the Dragons Tail right up the main ridge, taking in various pitches from different walls en route. Though there are many possible variations, the “classic” combination described here starts up On The Edge and continues up the climbs closest to the main ridge. The first Integral, in July 2019, took in a couple of bonus pitches, A Litany of Woe and Jungle Jim on Bobo Wall, instead of the more obvious and direct unroped pitch, Easy Way Home. Among other options one of the multi-pitch routes could be climbed, before continuing up climbs on Split Buttress and Gaga, Bobo, and Karaka Walls. Depending on the combination, the total integral will include between six and ten pitches and one or two sections of scrambling.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11460m11No
 

On The Edge Start at the lowest point of the Dragons Tail and climb leftward and up. Can be split into two pitches. Then abseil to the base of Deceitful Doris..

21840m7Yes
 

Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty Climb the prominent rib with one large cam to the ledge; then either up the crack with gear or follow the bolts further left.

31515m3No
 

Gorseless Short pitch on the ridge.

41615m3No
 

Failed Trad Climber On the Split Buttress, just left of the ridge with a faint crack. This is followed by a scrambling section up to Gaga Wall.

51720mNo
 

The Hollow Man On Gaga Wall, just right of the ridge, beside a damp section of rock.

6630mNo
 

Easy Way Home Bypassing Bobo Wall, this is a series of scrambling moves which can be readily climbed unroped. The highlight is the optional cheval section.

71512mYes
 

Karaka Obvious classic left-leaning crack. If gear is not carried, Critical Mass can be climbed instead.

Grade: 
14,18,15,16,17,6,15
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
192m
Bolts: 
24
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Various
Route Image: 
UUID: 
4c5a688e-223b-4aa9-9cd0-499efffc3cdd