The Gully

(2 routes)

This is the area between the Dragon's Tail and the Multi-pitch routes, and above the Baby Buttress. Although previously filled with dense gorse, it is slowly opening up to reveal a significant amount of rock.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
40 min
Access: 

The lower track goes to the base of the Dragon's Tail, and a track branching to the right goes up the gully left of the Baby Buttress and continues into The Gully area. Alternatively you can follow the upper track down to where you can scramble up to the col beside the Dragon's Tail. Then abseil from the boulder there, or climb carefully to the summit and abseil from the chain anchor there.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
DDD Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty 19 40m
0
7bolts wire representing trad
Elusive as well as deceitful. Originally the top crack was climbed by John Madgwick, but it is unclear whether he climbed the ridge below from the col to access the crack. The modern version starts in The Gully beside the chimney and follows the rib to join the ridge, and then climbs the crack on gear, including some larger sizes.
John Madgwick, 1991, Joe Arts, 2019.
RO Rock On 17 25m
0
8bolts
At the right side of the cleared ledge start up the oddly-featured steep wall. At the fourth bolt step on to the ledge and walk across to the corner. Bridge up past the fifth bolt and settle on to the arete (crux). Then up more easily, and just below the anchor move across to the bolt on The Road To Perdition and up to finish.
Lindsay Main, 2019.
UUID: 
00128bf0-a858-4bc8-8327-0f10f9c59ccc