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The Gully

Part of

This is the area between the Dragon's Tail and the Multi-pitch routes, and above the Baby Buttress. Although previously filled with dense gorse, it is slowly opening up to reveal a significant amount of rock.

40 min
North East

The lower track goes to the base of the Dragon's Tail, and a track branching to the right goes up the gully left of the Baby Buttress and continues into The Gully area. Alternatively you can follow the upper track down to where you can scramble up to the col beside the Dragon's Tail. Then abseil from the boulder there, or climb carefully to the summit and abseil from the chain anchor there.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Gs GsGorseless, 15 15 15m 3

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 3

On the small buttress above Deceitful Doris, this is the third pitch in the Integral Route which climbs the entire ridge. Climb through a small scoop moving right; then left of the next one.

 Be Gentle, 17 17 10m 3

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 3

Right on the ridge. From the ledge on Deceitful Doris climb leftward across the wall protected by bolts to a shallow corner at an easier grade than the Doris crack finish.

DDD DDDDeceitful Doris Does the Dirty, 18 18 40m 7

Elusive as well as deceitful. Originally the top crack was climbed by John Madgwick, but it is unclear how he accessed it. The modern version starts in The Gully beside the chimney and follows the rib past several bolts past a slot where a large cam is required (Camalot 3 / Friend 4 / Dragon 5) before smearing up the rib. (Don't be tempted leftward by the decoy bolts leading to the col, which are to protect that route). Join the ridge at the ledge and then climb the short crack on gear, with some larger sizes being useful though not essential.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 40m
  • 7
  • Trad

RO RORock On, 17 17 25m 8

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 8

At the right side of the cleared ledge start up the oddly-featured steep wall. At the fourth bolt step on to the ledge and walk across to the corner. Bridge up past the fifth bolt and settle on to the arete (crux). Then up more easily, and just below the anchor move across to the bolt on The Road To Perdition and up to finish.