The Gully

(4 routes)

This is the area between the Dragon's Tail and the Multi-pitch routes, and above the Baby Buttress. Although previously filled with dense gorse, it is slowly opening up to reveal a significant amount of rock.

North East
Walk time: 
40 min

The lower track goes to the base of the Dragon's Tail, and a track branching to the right goes up the gully left of the Baby Buttress and continues into The Gully area. Alternatively you can follow the upper track down to where you can scramble up to the col beside the Dragon's Tail. Then abseil from the boulder there, or climb carefully to the summit and abseil from the chain anchor there.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Gs Gorseless 15 15m
On the small buttress above Deceitful Doris, this is the third pitch in the Integral Route which climbs the entire ridge. Climb through a small scoop moving right; then left of the next one.
Joe Arts, 2019.
Be Gentle 17 10m
Right on the ridge. From the ledge on Deceitful Doris climb leftward across the wall protected by bolts to a shallow corner at an easier grade than the Doris crack finish.
Joe Arts, 2019.
DDD Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty 18 40m
7bolts wire representing trad
Elusive as well as deceitful. Originally the top crack was climbed by John Madgwick, but it is unclear how he accessed it. The modern version starts in The Gully beside the chimney and follows the rib past several bolts past a slot where a large cam is required (Camalot 3 / Friend 4 / Dragon 5) before smearing up the rib. (Don't be tempted leftward by the decoy bolts leading to the col, which are to protect that route). Join the ridge at the ledge and then climb the short crack on gear, with some larger sizes being useful though not essential.
John Madgwick, 1991, Joe Arts, 2019.
RO Rock On 17 25m
At the right side of the cleared ledge start up the oddly-featured steep wall. At the fourth bolt step on to the ledge and walk across to the corner. Bridge up past the fifth bolt and settle on to the arete (crux). Then up more easily, and just below the anchor move across to the bolt on The Road To Perdition and up to finish.
Lindsay Main, 2019.