Dragon's Tail

(10 routes)

The Dragon's Tail is the big lower buttress - the most prominent feature of the area - previously known as the "Bottom Slab" of Devils Gap. It can be approached from either above or below, and was the main area targeted during recent crag development. Climbs here are sometimes slabby with not a lot of holds, or otherwise steep and juggy, but nothing is very hard. There is an anchor chain at the top of the pillar, and another half way down on the left. The top of the pillar can be reached by scrambling from the col above a broadleaf tree. It can be a good idea to use a short fixed rope here. There is also a short lead route with one bolt.

Altitude: 
600m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Mussel Factory Girls 15 60m
0
wire representing trad
Somewhat superseded by the next route, as it follows the weaknesses (and therefore vegetation), with very little protection. Start up the slab adjacent to the vegetated crack, and at some point move left to the arete, which is now protected by the bolts of the next route. There is an old anchor station about two-thirds of the way up.
John Madgwick, 1991.
1 On The Edge 14 62m
1.02
12bolts
A modern take on Mussel Factory Girls. Start at the base of the slab and head leftward into the vegetated niche. Then move out left on to the arete and follow this to the anchor (about 32 metres). For the second pitch continue up the arete past the old MFG anchor bolts to the top of the pinnacle.
Joe Arts, 2018.
2 Take One 16 60m
0
11bolts
Starting at the base of the slab as for rout 1. Up over ledges to a bolt on the left; step right through a steep section to the overhang. Around to the right and then left onto easy ground with the belay anchor. Second pitch up very easy ground.
Joe Arts, 2018.
3 Make America Grate Again 16 32m
0
7bolts
Start on the black rock slightly further right. Follow sloping ledges and small protrusions heading slightly rightward until the terrain steepens abruptly. Pull up on absurdly good jugs to a tricky denouement where smaller holds are required for a move; then up easily across the low-angled slab heading left to the two-ring anchor station. About 7 bolts. Finish up one of the other routes.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
4 Ride The Dragon 15 55m
1.02
9bolts
A long one-pitch route. Start in the gully right of the slab and climb black rock up a short corner (crux) to a ledge; past vegetation to another ledge and corner and on up to an easy slab below the overhang. Break through on the left in the corner (high bolt); followed by straightforward slab climbing with spaced bolts to a final bulge. Manoeuvre past this slightly rightward to good holds, and cruise to the anchor chain. Nine bolts.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
5 No Reason 17 45m
0
11bolts
Starts further up the gully. Some easy terrain leads to a couple of steep bulges with slopey holds, followed by an easy slab up to the overhang. The route goes up the right side with some delicate moves stepping up. After 35 metres the route merges left into the finish of RTD.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
6 The Edge Of Reason 17 28m
0
7bolts
Starting further up the gully, above the huge chockstone. Step left onto the wall and climb the slab beside the arete. At about 15 metres move on to the arete and climb slightly on the right side to gain the small bulge; then easily to the anchor station.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
7 Gorse Escape 18 15m
0
5bolts
Direct route from the gorsy gully to the anchor station.
Joe Arts, 2018.
8 A Little Tale 12 10m
0
1bolts
Very short route directly from the col to the pinnacle summit, with one bolt. Some impressive pockets are encountered.
Hugh Logan, 2018.
Col de Sac 14 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Chimney route in the gully and around the block to the col. Two bolts on the face to the right of the chimney.
Hugh Logan, 2018.