Right Wall

(12 routes)

This lower area to the right, about 20 metres high, harbours some excellent climbs.

North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Down The Drain
Starts in a small right-facing corner, beside a brown arete, at the left side of the wall. Straight up the short steep water-worn wall, just above the third bolt and before you get into the easy angled, vegetated rock on the left make a committing move right, across and into the wide, shallow groove (crux). Climb the easier corners to the top. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999
The Bone People
Starts in a small right-facing corner on grey rock and swing left on to the brown arete. From the arete move right to gain a groove, and up to a steeper exit (crux). Six or seven bolts. Joe Arts, 1999.
Fallen Arches
Follows the leftward trending arch, make the best of the holds on the arch and the wall on its left, where the arch peters out move directly up the head wall and finally over the top to anchors. Tony Burnell, 1999.
The prominent easy-looking corner. Climb the corner using crack techiques and the left wall until it steepens at the fourth bolt. Move left slightly and bridge wide to reach the fifth bolt (very committing). Move right to gain the exit groove to top out. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999
Quality Street
One of the best routes at the crag. Climbs a water worn slightly curving groove. At the top of the groove move up and then slightly left on an obvious staircase. Make an awkward move up the steepening wall to good holds with steeper face climbing to finish. At the top move right to a belay bolt in the side of a large block. There is a double bolt anchor on the other side of the block. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Dawn's Coming In
Arete with a small groove in it. Climb the groove and mantle the ledge at half height. Continue with easier climbing to the top. The second bolt was committing to clip, until an extra bolt was added. Ring bolt anchors at the top. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Wall Street Crash
Strating in the prominent corner, trend quickly left on to the wall, then thin moves straight up to the roof. Undercling slightly left to jugs, then big moves up the wall to a small ledge and rest. At the last bolt head left to join the top of Dawn's Coming In. Nine bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Southerly Bluster
Starts below the left-facing corner and climb the initial wall into the corner. Bridge off the apparently detached pinnacle and swing onto the arete. Climb straight up and get a no hands rest on the right. Move up to the left end of the roof on Blinkers and from the downward pointing fangs move continue up and slightly left to an obvious flat topped hold, stand on this and continue more easily to the top. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Climb the undercut left facing corner towards a pedestal on the right. Before reaching the pedestal a hold on the right wall enables you to swing out onto the steep black face, good holds after a couple of moves. Continue up slabbier walls and ledges until you reach some downward pointing flakes in a small roof/overlap. From the undercuts move up awkwardly and slightly right into a shallow open groove which leads to the top. At the final bolt walk leftward across the ledge to the double bolt anchor. Tony Burnell, 1999.
A Friend In Low Places
Start in a corner on left of a bush with a cam placement in a slot to protect the first moves. Move left past the first bolt to easy climbing trending left following the weakness, then back right at the fifth bolt with some great bridging moves to surmount the overhang. Six bolts, but no anchors - move several metres left to double rings at the top of Southerly Bluster. Joe Arts, 1999.
The Sword Of Damocles
The wider, right-hand of two cracks through the overhangs at the right edge of the cliff. Awkward through the first overhang to get established, then good bridging through to the easy top cracks. Two bolts and natural protection. Belay wherever, and abseil from the rings of Southerly Bluster. Joe Arts, 2000.
Max Black
in the middle of the steep gully on a small black wall. Straight up a the black wall on spaced holds past two bolts. Move slightly right after the second bolt and belay from blocks and trees at the top. Abseil from the tree, or descend ledges to the right of the climb. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
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