Needle Buttress

(5 routes)

The right-hand of the crag's two 30 metre buttresses is distinguished by a detached pillar near the top, left of the prow. There are two sets of anchor rings. Access to the top of the crag is possible from the right side with a little scrub-bashing.

North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Death Rattle Gulch 21
A long line of bolts up the featureless wall on the side of the Needle Buttress. Start up a steep groove, step left to rest at the small roof, and step right on to the headwall. Climb the wall directly to the anchors. Deviating to the right and climbing the crack reduces the grade to about 19. Ten bolts.
Tony Burnell 1999
Thirty Minute Rock Slide 25
7bolts wire representing trad
The thirty metre arete terminating in The Needle. Start left of the arete and climb directly to the small roof; then rightward to the arete (crux). Up the arete to the crack and jam to a precarious standing position on the top of the Needle. Anchor bolts are just above. Five bolts (take a sling for clipping a nearby one on the previous route) and a couple of biggish cams.
Tomy Burnell 1999
Astrocrab 22
10bolts wire representing trad
Obvious corner line right of the buttress. Committing moves through a bulge and up the obvious corner, moving right at the top, which can be protected by a #2 Friend. Also nine or ten bolts.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Recycled Recreation 24
Climb to the ledge at four metres and move up the right side of the roof. Continue slightly right before going back left to gain a series of corners above. Climb the blank corners and the headwall above to a hanging belay. Six bolts.
Tony Burnell 1999
Urban Trauma 24
Starts up the corner on the right side of the wall. At the second bolt move left onto the steep wall and climb directly up to a series of steeper grooves. Above this is a ledge - move left and up to the anchors for Recycled Recreation. Take care with rope drag on the finish. Six bolts.
Tony Burnell 1999