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Gold Wall

Type
Part of

The routes on this wall are about 20 metres long and finish at abseil stations about eight metres below the top of the cliff.

Aspect
North East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Premature Ageing, 22 22 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 5

About two metres right of the prominent protruding rib, up an overhanging black pillar. Start in a clean-cut corner with a flake hold to the left and bridge to the bulge. Undercling on the knobbly rock and use a movable but secure hold in a crack for the left hand to move up the bulge past the second bolt. Balance up to the third bolt and bridge past to easier climbing to the anchors about ten metres below the top. Five bolts.


 Experimental Jetset, 21 21 6
3

  • P1
  • 21
  • 6

Start two metres right to the ledge, then climb through the bulge about a metre left of the second bolt. At the third bolt a long reach rightward gives a good hold, followed by bridging through the next bulge and then easier climbing to the anchors. Six bolts.


 Radical Fingers, 21 21 7
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 7

Climb the previous route to the ledge and clip the second bolt. Move right about two metres and clip another bolt, then unclip the previous one. Directly up to a bulge, then easier to the anchors. Six/seven bolts.


 Pillar Pillage, 21 21 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 5

Takes a small but obvious pillar in the middle of the wall above a tussock. Climb easy unprotected ground (easier to the right) past ledges to a high first bolt and move up to the base of the pillar with a large flat hold on the left. Use edges and holds on both sides to climb the pillar directly. Then a good edge on the left deals with the final steepness on the rib at the top. Five bolts.


 Ancient Gallery, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Major corner with a wide crack veering left at the top. The only route done before wholesale development of the crag started in 1999. Good climbing with a mixed rack of gear. Anchor to a small tree below the small cliff above. Athol Whimp, 1990.


 Zen Arcade, 22 22 0m
2.01

  • P1
  • 22

A direct route up the slightly bulgy orange wall. Starts in a groove with a low bolt to the ledge, then up the wall on small holds, moving slightly left at the top to the anchor rings.


Comments
UUID
 
8e284cf2-bb88-400c-b9d6-f478d9b99da7