Gold Wall

(6 routes)

The routes on this wall are about 20 metres long and finish at abseil stations about eight metres below the top of the cliff.

North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Premature Ageing 22
About two metres right of the prominent protruding rib, up an overhanging black pillar. Start in a clean-cut corner with a flake hold to the left and bridge to the bulge. Undercling on the knobbly rock and use a movable but secure hold in a crack for the left hand to move up the bulge past the second bolt. Balance up to the third bolt and bridge past to easier climbing to the anchors about ten metres below the top. Five bolts.
Lindsay Main 1999
Experimental Jetset 21
Start two metres right to the ledge, then climb through the bulge about a metre left of the second bolt. At the third bolt a long reach rightward gives a good hold, followed by bridging through the next bulge and then easier climbing to the anchors. Six bolts.
Marcus Thomas, 1999
Radical Fingers 21
Climb the previous route to the ledge and clip the second bolt. Move right about two metres and clip another bolt, then unclip the previous one. Directly up to a bulge, then easier to the anchors. Six/seven bolts.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Pillar Pillage 21
Takes a small but obvious pillar in the middle of the wall above a tussock. Climb easy unprotected ground (easier to the right) past ledges to a high first bolt and move up to the base of the pillar with a large flat hold on the left. Use edges and holds on both sides to climb the pillar directly. Then a good edge on the left deals with the final steepness on the rib at the top. Five bolts.
Lindsay Main 1999
Zen Arcade 22
A direct route up the slightly bulgy orange wall. Starts in a groove with a low bolt to the ledge, then up the wall on small holds, moving slightly left at the top to the anchor rings. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Ancient Gallery 16
wire representing trad
Major corner with a wide crack veering left at the top. The only route done before wholesale development of the crag started in 1999. Good climbing with a mixed rack of gear. Anchor to a small tree below the small cliff above. Athol Whimp, 1990.
Athol Whimp 1990