Central Buttress

(4 routes)

This is the dominant feature of the crag – a towering prow, overhanging at the bottom and 30 metres high. There are anchor rings and a good stance right at the top on the crest of The Buttress which serve the next four routes.

North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Aviation 22
Takes a corner line a few metres left of the main buttress. Scramble to the ledge and clip the first bolt, then haul up the undercut corner (crux) and step right to a ledge, then climb the left of two short corners above, then trending right to easier ground. Clip a bolt on the route to the right with a sling, and climb the groove past the last bolt to the anchor rings at the top of the buttress. Run-out at the top, but it's quite easy if you step right on to the prow. Eight bolts. Note: there is a dangerously loose hold near the first bolt.
Lindsay Main, 1999
Outer Space 23
An impressive line through the overhangs just left of the crest. Clip the first bolt and jump for a big pocket; up over some crumbly stuff to the main roof. Pull up on good spaced holds and pockets, moving left to the arete to gain the big ledge. Then up the bottomless corner and move right to a groove (watch for rope drag on the arete - use long quickdraws or two ropes). Awkward moves eventually lead to easier climbing on the slab, with a final technical section up the arete to the anchor bolts. Ten bolts.
Marcus Thomas, 1999
Eternal Optimism 25
Direct line right up the prow of the main buttress, through some good-sized roofs. Ten bolts.
Richard Kimberley, 1999
Chronic Fatigue 22
Climb a scaly lower corner and move right past the first bolt to a ledge, then up the overhanging left-facing corner to a rest. Continue up the wall, moving left past the fifth bolt to black rock in the corner. Continue to the top (with a tricky move at the top) and cross the ledge leftward to the anchors. Nine bolts.
Lindsay Main, 1999