Caboose Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

A strongly featured wall between the two buttresses, with routes about 28 metres long. Most finish at the large ledge running across just below the top of the cliff, which has been fitted with anchor bolts on the overhanging wall above. Anchor using the bolts nearest to the route. The descent route is on the right (north) side of the ledge where there is a pair of ring hangers. A 15 metre abseil gets you to a spacious ledge halfway down the cliff, from where another pair of ring anchors gives access to the ground.

Aspect

North East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Pro	Quality
	Nine Pins, 21	21	9	1.02
P1 21 9 Technical start with a layback move to the ledge, then step right and pull through the overhang moving left. Continue up to the corner, with tricky moves in the smooth black section near the top. Step right on to the main ledge and anchor at two separated bolts. Nine bolts.
	Lindsay's project			0

	The Plague, 22	22	8	0
P1 22 8 Just right of a broad arete. Climb to the ledge and climb up a shallow groove left of the first bolt to steep moves with small on a bulge at the fourth bolt (crux) , followed by a rest above. Move left to another groove to finish, with chains just below the main ledge. Eight bolts.
	Itchy And Scratchy, 22	22	8	0
P1 22 8 Starts just to the right of The Plague but moves right to another groove, finishing just left of the prominent arete. About eight bolts.
	Half A Flea, 18	18	5	2.01
P1 18 5 Climb the obvious groove with the crux move rightward a few metres up, and step right to finish at the halfway ledge after the fifth bolt.
	Motion Sickness, 23	23	5	0
P1 23 5 Start just right on move left from the wall below the rounded black roof to a steep rib. From the third bolt step right and climb the right-facing corner, then step on to the small wall and climb to the ledge. Five bolts.
	Lindsay's project			0

	Instant Gratification, 22	22	4	0
P1 22 4 Overhanging shallow groove with the crux moves past the second bolt to a rest at the third bolt, then hand traverse left to the chimney. Tricky arm-bars to finish at the abseil ledge. Four bolts.

Comments

UUID

09acb6a7-5d2d-4e92-bb21-2cacd9bc8be5