Animal House

(8 routes)

Named for the inclination of goats to shelter under the overhangs in bad weather. This is a high-quality wall with several top routes, though the grey rock at the start of those on the left is very flaky. All the routes end at or near abseil rings. If you can tolerate the smell, the overhangs give shelter from rain and shade from sun. There are four sets of bolt anchors.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Golden Streak 22
0
4bolts
Start on grey rock at the left end of the ledge and pull onto the rib with a protruding hold. Move left and pull through a bulge (hard clip) to the upper wall (crux). Exit right of a large loose block. Four bolts.
Lindsay Main 1999
Gold Power 23
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
Hard start, then through the highest part of the roof on large spaced holds. Five bolts, including the first and last of Golden Streak. A large cam can be placed above the first bolt.
Marcus Thomas 1999
31 Degrees 21
1.02
4bolts 1
Start at the small rib. Climb the wall with hard moves on small holds and pull through the roof on huge jugs. Shares the last bolt of Goats' Shit Soup. Four bolts. Anchors are to the right.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Goats' Shit Soup 22
1.02
4bolts
More appetising than the name suggests. Start on flaky grey rock in a right-facing corner and balance on to the wall, then pull through the roof on small positive holds, and up the wall. Move left at the fourth bolt to finish up the groove. Anchors are to the right.
Lindsay Main 1999
Prisoners Of The Sun 22
1.02
5bolts
Hard start to pull rightward past the first bolt, then sustained climbing with balancy moves directly up the wall to a steep finish. Five bolts.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Solar Power 22
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Powerful moves through the roof, then on up the wall to the last of three bolts. Follow the ramp rightward (wire placement) to the anchor bolts. Great rock.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Heatstroke 21
3
3bolts wire representing trad
Hard pulling on big holds directly over the roof to a high first bolt; then up and right to a large hold with excellent technical moves to the upper slab. Three bolts and a large wire near the top.
Lindsay Main 1999
New Horizons 19
0
wire representing trad
Start in the corner at the right end of the wall and pull round leftward to the crack (awkward); follow this to the top. Step left to the anchor chains. Entirely natural protection.
Lindsay Main 1999