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Mt Forbes

Type
Altitude
2583m
Part of

Mt Forbes was first climbed by Hugh Wright and Jim Murphy in February 1912 during their return to
Mt Cook after the first ascent of Mt Arrowsmith.

Image
Caption

Looking east to D'Archiac and the Sibbald Range, December 2016

Rights credit
Penny Brothers
Lat/lon
-43.49546022,170.5878067, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX17 050 813
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
8.78 8.78North East Snowfields, II,1+ II,1+ 0m
0

From the lower Butcher valley, climb up to the Ballium Snowfield on the true right of the Ballium Stream, then follow easy snow slopes to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 1+

 South Face, 1+ 1+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

From the upper Macaulay River, reach the head of McKinnon Stream from the ridge north of Pt 2437 metres. Descend to the glacier and follow it to the summit.


 North West Ridge, 1+ 1+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

From Twilight Col (see below) climb the rock ridge directly to the summit or, for an easier climb, sidle south across the upper Butcher Glacier and then up the west face.


 South East Ridge, 1+ 1+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

From Murphy Stream access Murphy Glacier on the true right. Climb the steepening glacier to the summit or move on to the South East Ridge.


Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
CW Alps 2009 (Geoff Spearpoint, Yvonne Cook, CMC)
UUID
 
dffeb9e0-76ca-4103-917f-ec356c7fe9b4