Sharp Shooter

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
A straight up route on the left side of the Hourglass Wall. Start 70m left of The Whole Nine Yards. 9Y. This involves a quick scramble to get to the start. You will notice the bolts for the first pitch and the left facing corner that makes the 2nd pitch Requires 2 X 30 m for repels, small to medium trad gear
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11315m3No
 

traverse right and scramble up to belay,

22130m5Yes
 

(18 M1), 5 bolts + trad, out right into imposing corner system close to arete,

32045m9Yes
 

head right from belay then traverse (10 m ?) left and up headwall,

41725m9No
 

head hard left of 10 m from belay then follow diagonal system to slopy ledge, belay station is 6 m left ,

51940m9Yes
 

head right up over belay and over diagonal breaks, at 6th bolt head left to belay,

62230m5Yes
 

go right off the ledge and up a system of rails and insipient footholds, use horizontal and vertical rails

71930m6Yes
 

follow the bolts

81930m9Yes
 

climb steep slab on small holds to overlap at top,

91630m6Yes
 

go left across gully then rightward up pillar to belay,

101430m3Yes
 

go up pillar/corner to ledges and go rightward to next belay station

111635m4Yes
 

up face to overlap, move left under overlaps, then head right of wide gully to glory,

Grade: 
13,21,20,17,19,22,19,19,16,14,16
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
340m
Bolts: 
68
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Grant Piper, Bernard Frankpitt, Kate Bailue,Richard Kimberly, Kevin Barratt. 2023
Route Image: 
UUID: 
8ded39d6-7c8f-4a5e-9808-41adccdccfb7

Comments

grubbie's picture

There are a number of improvements to be carried out at a later date, but generally okay to climb at this stage.
The bottom pitches are good!

If you're climbing a route 70m left of your 9 Yards route have you considered that you may have copied the Bowie Thompson route on the left wall?

So you used an ice tool on P2 to get the M1 grade?