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Sharp Shooter

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 15 January 2025, by Richard Thomson.

Permission is required to cross private land. Log in for contact details.

Grade
22
Length
350m
11
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Grant Piper, Bernard Frankpitt, Kate Bailue, Richard Kimberly, Kevin Barratt -2023
Top pitches added in by Cliff Ellery and Grant Piper, 2023
Located on
Hourglass & Centre Walls

A straight up route on the left side of the Hourglass Wall.
Start 70m left of The Whole Nine Yards. 9Y. This involves a quick scramble to get to the start.
You will notice the bolts for the first pitch and the left facing corner that makes the 2nd pitch.
The whole route can be descended using a single 60m rope (raps are 30m or less apart even if pitch is 45m long)
There is a small amount of trad gear required, BD cams from #0.3 - #1.0.
Extendable quick draws are also very useful.
There is enough bolts in places to aid through cruxes above grade 20.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 4

Traverse right and scramble up to belay.

  • P2
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 5
  • Trad

(18 M1), 5 bolts + trad, out right into imposing corner system close to arete. trad gear up groove into obvious corner with bolts near right arete - difficult to spot from underneath.

  • P3
  • 20
  • 45m
  • 11
  • Trad

Head right from belay then traverse (10 m ?) left at 5th bolt, and up headwall. Once off the steep wall, carry on 10m upwards to back of ledge and belay station.

  • P4
  • 19
  • 40m
  • 9

. At ledge height, move left and use Lh belay station. If you shooting for the stars, do pitch 4 of Mission to Mercury. traverse left from the belay and follow edge of break back right past bolts. At the ledge traverse left from the abseil station for another belay at the far left of the ledge. If you're shooting for the stars climb pitch 5 of Mission to Mercury up the obvious line of bolts above the belay

  • P5
  • 19
  • 40m
  • 9
  • Trad

Head right up over belay and over diagonal breaks, at 6th bolt head left to belay, use 1st 2 bolts on Lhs. past 2 bolts and diagonal crack with small cams. Go left at 9th bolt and up to belay.

  • P6
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 6
  • Trad

Go right off the ledge and across to a groove then onto headwall, using thin foot holds, horizontal and vertical rails.

  • P7
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 6
  • Trad

Follow the bolts, though balance moves to a small ledge.

  • P8
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 9
  • Trad

Climb steep slab on small holds to overlap at top. Go left below 3rd bolt finger crack for gear if needed.

  • P9
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Start on stretchy moves. Pass 2 bolts, then go up to the base of the gully. Belay is on the left below gully.

  • P10
  • 18
  • 35m
  • 4
  • Trad

Across gully and back left onto jugular wall. Or there’s an easier option; go up the right side of the gully and onto ledge, and carry on to top following a few bolts for navigation beacons. Easy to link last 2 pitches ( 10 & 11 ) together - great cruisy pitch with big holds

  • P11
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 4
  • Trad

Up overlap to ledge. The best place to finish the climb. Abseil down the route from here.

  • P12
  • 10
  • 20m
  • Trad

Follow left up rising ledge to another rap station. (Optional but needed if you want to top out at the top of the wall).

Comments
cragrat
climbnz_editor

So you used an ice tool on P2 to get the M1 grade?

Sun, 08/01/2023 - 21:09 Permalink
Peter Dickson

If you're climbing a route 70m left of your 9 Yards route have you considered that you may have copied the Bowie Thompson route on the left wall?

Thu, 05/01/2023 - 17:01 Permalink
grubbie
climbnz_editor

There are a number of improvements to be carried out at a later date, but generally okay to climb at this stage.
The bottom pitches are good!

Thu, 05/01/2023 - 08:37 Permalink
UUID
 
8ded39d6-7c8f-4a5e-9808-41adccdccfb7