East Ridge, ‘The Golden Road’

This route offers a direct approach from the Bracken Snowfield, though the rock is quite poor in places. A snow arête gives way to a narrow ridge of loose rock and pinnacles, another snow arête and then some gendarmes. A variation, keeping to snow on the south side before the crux, has also been used. The section from the East Ridge up steep, loose rock flanks to the West Ridge is normally the crux.