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Mt Glenisla

Type
Altitude
2392m
Part of
Lat/lon
POINT (169.8879 -43.9407)
Access

From Apricot Flat
The northern and western aspects of Glenisla are reached directly from Apricot Flat in the Hopkins up a spur at BY15 481 322, which gives good access to the tops through open beech forest with no bushline scrub.

Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Mid-face, 16,5,III 16,5,III 300m
0

Start up weathered slabs in the middle of the west face, cross a wide ledge and branch right into a right-trending corner. Straight up this to the ridge below the summit. Generally solid rock.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 300m

 Right Side Rib, 10,3,III 10,3,III 0m
0

Scramble up the rib that splits the right side of the west face. Then climb into a deep gully leading to the crest of the south-west ridge to the top point in a small notch between the summit and a high point on the south-west ridge.


  • P1
  • 10
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 South West Ridge, 2,II 2,II 0m
0

The south-west ridge offers relatively straightforward climbing on chossy rock.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

 South East Ridge, 2,II 2,II 0m
0

Gain the ridge via scree slopes to the north of the peak. The ridge gives easy but interesting climbing to the summit. The first ascent party of nine gained the ridge by climbing the small glacier under the south face and a very chossy gully to the col between Glenisla and Pt 2385m. Four of the party descended the northern slopes, completing the first traverse of the peak.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

 North West Buttress, 16,5,IV 16,5,IV 0m
1.02

Follow the north-west buttress to the shoulder, then traverse across the overhanging north wall to reach the summit ridge. Easy ground from there to the top. A good climb on reasonable quality
rock.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV

 North Face, 15,4+,IV 15,4+,IV 0m
0

Begin just east of the large scree cone and ascend red rock to reach the summit ridge. Climbed as part of a mountain guides course.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV

Comments
UUID
 
0b136b12-f414-477d-9bf5-3ded42013525