The west face of Mt Glen Lyon has eight rock routes that can be climbed in a long day from the car park.
Gain the west face from the lower Hopkins valley. Cross the Hopkins River and ascend the scree-filled gully leading north-east toward the summit of Glen Lyon to access a 500m high rock slab.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| Vote for Pedro, 15,4,IV | 15,4,IV | 0m | ||||
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So we just pick up a line and climb the slabs and had a great day on the rock, thanks to share this mountain with all of us. However we started climbing 100m up the gut (no any snow left) and climb the pretty obvious diagonal corner to what we think is Derek’s escape ledge and from there up a pitch with route 2 and traverse right (crux) to the arete. From here up another 2 pitches to the top ridge. We thought we climbed a new line and wanted to let you know. We called "Vote for Pedro" and it’s a pleasant grade 13 with one pitch of 15 in the middle, we left a piton there too.
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| The Blind Assassin, 14,4,IV | 14,4,IV | 0m | ||||
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Start between Vote for Pedro and Tenderfoot, climb straight up to where those two routes cross, then traverse the ledge to the far left of the upper headwall.
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| Tenderfoot, 14,4,IV | 14,4,IV | 0m | ||||
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Climb the slab from left to right, topping out near the 1900m contour.
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| Late Bloomer, 17,5,IV | 17,5,IV | 0m | ||||
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From the toe of the main buttress take a s-shaped line up the slab.
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| Vote for Hillary, 14,4,III | 14,4,III | 0m | ||||
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Six pitches to the outlier, a short scramble and two abseils off.
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| Chossy Mossy, 15,4+,III | 15,4+,III | 0m | ||||
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Follow a wide crack followed by broken ledges just right of a huge overhanging scoop. Stemming crux is through overlaps.
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| Chicken Scoop, 17,5,III | 17,5,III | 0m | ||||
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A four pitch climb that begins lower on the face. First pitch is a stunner, 40m of bomber incuts and high steps with just enough gear. One pitch scramble to the outlier summit and a 50m abseil to the exit gully.
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| Racattack, 14,4,III | 14,4,III | 0m | ||||
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Start near the lowest point of the west face and scramble up the ridgeline, turning difficulties on the right-hand side with a couple of harder pitches near the top. Finish on the outlier and descend with two abseils and down-scrambling.
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| East Ridge, 1,I | 1,I | 0m | ||||
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From the lower Dobson valley, follow the stream to Waterfall Basin where there is a pleasant bivvy spot. Walk up to the col at 1900m on the east ridge and follow the ridge to the summit.
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