Dasler Pinnacles

From Dasler Bivouac scramble up through tussock and scree to a saddle at the base of the ridge. The ridge is excellent quality rock and leads directly to the summit and perhaps the finest viewpoint in the valley. Running shoe ascents of this route have been made in summer.

Begin between two snow patches at the base of the cliff’s left side. Climb slightly to the right onto a large triangle buttress on the face (good rest spot), into a corner chute and up to reach the ridge between two spikes. Grade 12 up to the buttress, 14 above buttress.

This line follows a faint rib to the left of the slabs climbed by Forgotten and starts about 50m right of the two snow patches that Bestowed starts between.

Begin about 50 metres to the left of Bedazzled and follow a fairly straight line of slabs with limited protection directly to the north ridge, always left of Fly on Little Wing. Finish about 100m north of the summit.

A mixed winter route on the west face of Dasler Pinnacles. WI4 for the start, a really tough last two pitches and overall grade 5ish. Start up the the obvious ice hose left of the summer line “Bedazzled“, then angle right up an easier snow slope to reach the big arete at about three quarters of the way up the face. Three pitches of hard mixed climbing up the arete to the summit. The first ascent party took 17.5 hours to complete the climb from Daslers Bivouac.

This route was named in 1995 but climbed as early as 1970. A 400m line on the buttress to the left of the big dark corner on the Pinnacles. The route climbs rock at grade 14–15 and ends directly on the summit. Variations exist, including following the arete to the summit.

A winter climb that follows the corner until near the top, then breaks off onto easier ground on slabs on the right-hand side.

This route climbs the tall slab face to the right of the huge black corner on the Pinnacles. At first climb 200m up the centre of the face to a terrace, move left to within 50m of the black corner, then 400m
of slabs keeping roughly parallel with the corner. The slabs give consistent grade 12–14 climbing.

Climb the skyline ridge of the central summit of the Dasler Pinnacles.

The route is to the right of Petit Peuterey and ascends the striking line on the southern (lower right) tier of the face, with sparse but adequate protection (all rock gear). The first ascentionists found thin ice and much of the rock rotten or blank, hence the lack of protection. The best descent is to abseil the route.

Start up the large central gully and snow cone, then climb a pitch of water ice and continue up a slightly left-trending gully until it constricts into a mixed section, before opening out on the upper snow slopes. Follow the left side of these to the col on the summit ridge. Descend the route.

Climbs the large corner system on the left-hand side of the south face, sticking to the corner throughout, and up a steep chimney at the top. Could be a lot fatter in good conditions.
Descent was via the large snow gully on the west face with one abseil on a step in the gully, and one ice pitch at base of the gully.