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Steeple Pk

Part of

(L to R) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl.
From the summit an easy decent is down the South ridge to the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, before following scree slopes back to camp.

4.5 or 8 houurs
POINT (169.76973776 -44.09365469)
BZ14 414 127

Access to the East face climbs is via either the South Temple valley or North Temple valley and Gun Sight Pass. Under the East face there is a good bivy / camp site on a shelf at the 1450m contour on the true left of the valley with water a few minutes walk away.
Alternatively access via North Temple Stream and a col between Bruce and Steeple peaks is much faster. See Bruce Peak for details.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North Face, 2+ 2+

From the mid North Temple Stream GR H38, 535752, approach the peak through
the beech forest, then ascend across the east face to reach the gully between
Steeple Peak and Peak 2200m. Climb the rock (about grade 12) to the summit.
Easier access is from the mid South Temple.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

Red RedLove me love my Zimmerframe, 3+ 3+

Twelve pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the middle of
the slab to the right of small pointy knoll near the bottom. Straight up for
two pitches through two awkward corner with not much gear, then rising
leftwards traverse to avoid the overhangs till near the ledge at half height.
From there easier scrambling, grade 12 ish and a small section of grade 14 at
the top. Connects with Zoe and Weta Prowl in upper part. Some pitons used for
protection. Twelve pitches with cruxes at grade 15.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Green GreenWandering Flob

A six pitch route in February, to the right of Love me love my Zimmerframe.
grade 13-16, pitches varying from 15-60 m, has fair to good rock quality and
protection. Descent was via two 60m abseils. The climb was repeated the next
day by Derek Billings and Dave Ryan.

Yellow YellowZoe Alpine, 3+ 3+

On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux
17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Blue BlueWeta Prowl, 14,3+ 14,3+

On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. From its low
point, scramble up and left for about 60m to a scree shelf. Climb the slab
for 6 or more pitches between the two rock flanges at up to grade 14. The
last pitch places you on a ridge where a short final pitch gets you over the
first and most difficult of the ridges obstacles. The ridge is then followed
for about 150m as a difficult scramble to the summit. 300m height gain,
plenty of protection on excellent rock.

  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

 Dry As A Bone, 15 15

To the right of Weta Prowl, finishing up a flake tucked up against the final steep buttress, to join Weta Prowl near the top.

  • P1
  • 15

 South Ridge, 1+ 1+

From the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, follow the ridge as an easy
scramble on fractured rock to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

 Weta Hotel, 15 15 145m

Starting at the base of the west ridge of the Steeple pk outlier, Climb three pitches with ample belay ledges and descend the scree slope. The sunny aspect makes this a good option when other routes in the area are not in condition. Take care of some loose flakes.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 50m
  • Trad

Up and right around the bulge. Scramble 10m up to the next pitch.

  • P2
  • 15
  • 45m
  • Trad

Climb center right of the slab.

  • P3
  • 14
  • 50m
  • Trad

Left hand side of the arete.