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Pt 1975

Type
Altitude
1975m
Part of

Routes from left to right are Sockeye, Fingerling, Fillet Up, Gaffed and Vegetable Sheep are In.

Image
Walktime
6-7 hours in from temple campsite. 4-5 hours out to temple campsite
Aspect
North West
Lat/lon
POINT (169.739646749 -44.1595834713)
Topo50
BZ14 393 052
Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North Ridge, 2,II 2,II
0

Begin at the pronounced rock buttress at BZ14 397 068 and follow the ridge to the reach a point just to the east of Pt 1975. A rope may be needed in places on the lower section. It is easy to traverse off the ridge once above the lower buttress.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

 Sockeye, 14,4,II 14,4,II
0

Seven pitches on salmon hued greywacke on the northeast side of the face. Begin at crack twenty metres from the lowest point of the slab and climb diagonally towards the crest of the slab. Follow a line parallel to the edge of slab towards the summit. Pleasant climbing a with short section of grade 14 in the middle of the route. Finish by climbing the Friend crack up the pink slab to the left of the vertical rock.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Trad

 Fingerling, 15,4,II 15,4,II
0

Eight pitches with the first and final pitches providing excellent climbing. Begin by climbing the obvious left tending crack for 15m, then straight up the fine fall line crack system at grade 15. Continue on up steady grade 12 climbing until the final pitch which includes a section of perfect finger crack, grade 15. Finishes by surmounting the preposterous summit block.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Trad

 Fillet Up, 17,4,II 17,4,II
0

Begin at top of the scree just right of darker coloured rock near the centre of the Salmon Slabs and follow the line providing the best climbing, aiming for the high point on the slab. Finish by climbing the left-hand of the two prominent features on the upper part of the slab. Mostly grade 12-13 climbing but grade 17 technical moves on the well-protected final pitch.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Trad

 Gaffed, 13,4,II 13,4,II
0

Three pitches beginning high in the shallow gully on the lower margin of the slabs. Start by climbing the groove on the right-hand slab directly toward the summit. Finish by climbing the crack on the left side of the slab. Steady grade 13 climbing.


  • P1
  • 13
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Trad

V VVegetable Sheep Are In, 14 14
0

A route near the ridge crest, starting roughly 200m SW of the main Salmon Slabs. Climb left of the small roof feature then stay on the ridge crest to finish. Small wires & cams useful.

Comments
Drcrog

Location of this crag was hard to come by. We accessed recently for a great climb.
There is a reasonably well trodden and marked track up the true right of the southern most branch of the south temple stream.
In the upper reaches there is also tape marking the route.
The crag is located on the northern most pk1975 (there are 2). The slabs are on the NW aspect.
There is a great bivvy spot where the drainage from Mt maitland and the tarns meet, below a waterfall at 1540m

Mon, 04/03/2019 - 23:11 Permalink
UUID
 
387a1544-ea1d-4030-9efc-eaa02c1fffe6