Updated 13 November 2025, by Richard Thomson.
Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Use JJ's access gully from the ridge. Traverse along the base of the wall, past the cracks, onto an exposed ledge (there is a chain on the corner to use as a safety), head around to your right to another belay anchor and the start of the climb. It shares it's first 2 bolts with the project on the left (shown in yellow above). Then branches slightly rightwards into the increasing difficulty. Aim towards the vertical feature, climbing through balancy, technical terrain, and then up to top out at an anchor chain.