The North West Ridge.

Follow route to the col on the rib running down from the West Face. The snowfields to the north are easily traversed, climbing steadily towards a prominent col on the North West Ridge. Above the latter col the ridge is steep and slabby but consists of sound rock. The first two or three pitches are the most difficult and involve two awkward steps, both of which are turned over the Maud Francis Glacier. Above them the angle eases and the remainder of the ridge is straightforward rock and snow, leading to the summit ridge about 150m south of the high peak. The climb takes about five hours from the col on the rib from the West Face to the summit.