The East Ridge.

From Cascade Saddle follow route 3.1 before veering left under the South Face of Wahine to reach Pakeha Col. The route on Maori zig-zags up a series of rotten rock ledges on the Dart Face to regain the ridge above the main gendarme. Above this the rock improves somewhat but is still poor, with some delicate towers just below the summit. The climb would take about five hours from Cascade Saddle and one and a half hours from Pakeha Col.