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From the Whitbourn Saddle, traverse or sidle under Maoriri. From below the
Whitbourn Glacier climb a shingle slide to and then traverse the Geikie Glacier until able to descend a snow couloir from the saddle below Troas towards the Whitbourn. Climb through crevasses to reach an ice ridge about 60m below the summit. A variation is to cross the Whitbourn shoulder of Troas.
From the Whitbourn Saddle