The South Face Original Line.

The route on the face follows the well-defined rib that falls from right to left from the summit. Two broad gullies lying to the left of this rib are swept frequently by ice avalanches from the cliffs above. Cross the schrund to the right of the foot of the rib. The foot of the rib is very steep and it is climbed on its eastern flank, where about 300 metres of fairly sustained rock climbing leads to the crest. Steep snow and ice (rock later in the summer) provide straightforward climbing for the next 300 metres. A small overhang on the rib is climbed directly, beyond which steep ice patches lead to the final snow and ice slopes beneath the summit. The initial party, with a rope of three, spent about 10 hours on the face.