|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
This route is very difficult to access due to the ‘great glacial recession’. This route has become more of a way of accessing the South Face than a climb. The South East corner is a fifty five degree, prominent snow and ice tongue leading up to the East Ridge, below and right of the low peak. The route follows the snow and ice leads, with a steeper section of about 150 metres of rock in the middle, before more snow leads out to the ridge about 100 metres below the low peak. In the winter this is all snow. This was used as the access route to the upper névé for the ascent of the South Face route. Moore’s time from the névé to the ridge was about one hour.
Pete Moore, early Dec 1972.