Mt Awful

(8 routes)

If cute was an acceptable word to use to describe a mountain then Mt Awful would be just that. It is a readily accessible peak with good rock as a bonus.


Mt Awful can be approached via the Wilkin Valley and then up Siberia, or up the Young Valley from Makarora. The Young Valley is probably the best option. There is potential to find a good bivvy spot at the head of the valley, above Young Hut. Makarora to Young Hut: 8–9 hours.

-44.140942340000, 169.062888640000
F38 951 666
BZ12 851 049
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
North West Ridge II 1+
From the Siberia Valley climb to the saddle between Doris and Awful, then along the ridge.
J W Aitken, J Gillespie, E Miller, F Wilkinson, December 1944
1 South East Ridge II 2+
From Young Hut there is a well marked tramping route up onto Gillespie Pass. From here the ridge to Mt Awful is scrambling. There are a couple of rock steps which look steeper than they are before the actual ridge is reached. The climbing on the ridge isn’t technically difficult. After a snowfield is climbed there is a section of good solid rock along a knife-edged ridge, which is the trickiest part of the climb and may require a rope and a small rock rack.
South West Ridge 14
wire representing trad
5 pitches
Mark Morrison, Regan Low, 2001
Allen Uren & John Cocks. Photo Shaun Barnett.


Type Title Edit link
Face (Alpine) East Face (5 routes)