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North East Ridge

First ascent
Laurie Kennedy, Dave Innes, February 1969
Located on

Although the North East Ridge is steep, clean-cut, and appealing, it was not attempted until 1969. The ridge is gained from Moncrieff Col, to the upper shelf of the Volta Glacier. Continue up the snow until underneath the peak and following a sloping ledge back out to the south west to gain the ridge at the foot of the steep section. From here the climbing is sustained about grade 14-15 with wild exposure down the East Face. The rock is good, with an easier section high on the ridge followed by another short steep section immediately below the summit. The climb requires about six hours from Moncrieff Col to the peak. It is also possible to access the Volta from the Bonar by descending down between the two peaks of Popes Nose. Two rappels may be required. This route is only practicable if a large snow ramp is formed on the north side.

  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III