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Mt Castor

Type
Altitude
2518m
Part of

This fine, rarely climbed peak just to the north of Pollux offers better climbing than its neighbour.

Lat/lon
POINT (168.88340699 -44.22113776)
Topo50
BZ11 712 953
Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Pickelhaube Glacier Route, 2,III 2,III 0m
0

Follow the Bluffs route on Pollux and traverse below Pollux to cross the col between Pollux and Helena into the Pickelhaube Glacier. From there the South West Face is straightforward. The first ascent was made via Chasm Pass.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 East Ridge, 2+,III 2+,III 0m
0

From the top of the moraine wall between Lake Lucidus and the North Wilkin, pick a line through the bluffs to gain a shelf that leads out to the lower East Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 South East Face, 2+,III 2+,III 0m
0

Gain the glacier above Lake Lucidus via the Bluffs route on Pollux. The route follows a prominent rock rib which merges into the snow of the face proper.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 Pickelhaube Glacier from the Drake River, III,2 III,2
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

From the Drake River sidle up the valley draining the Pickelhaube Glacier, to above bushline. Cut left up a scrub and tussock rib to slabs under Pegasus and follow benches to the Pickelhaube Glacier. Choose a route to suit up the last steeper bit.


Comments
Attribution
Allen Uren & John Cocks
UUID
 
4917c4e2-ae1a-4752-b7dd-fa6c5dea1e67