The South Ridge.

The South Ridge leads directly to the Middle Peak. Climb the Quarterdeck to the Bonar and descend the Flightdeck to reach the Maud Francis Glacier. The rock of the South Ridge is reached from a snow lead where the ridge begins to steepen towards the peak. During the first ascent most of the climbing was done on the steep loose rock of the eastern side of the ridge in order to escape the wind but in better conditions the slabby western side may be found easier. The prominent tower about halfway up is turned on the west. The first ascent was made in 5 hours from Colin Todd Hut and the climb would probably take a similar time from French Ridge. To traverse to the East Peak requires only a few minutes along an easy ridge. The traverse to the West Peak has not been made in this direction, but would probably involve rappelling into the notch.