|Reference||Title||Grade||Length||Quality||Bolts||Gone||Natural pro||Link to edit content|
|East Face||II 2||
Approach: Get here via the Donaldson, or via Pearl Drop Ice. For this approach, cross the Ice King Tops at the Eastern end, as per the Chasm Pass Route on Pollux (III,2). A recent (2020) ascent in late Summer did this by taking a long, unlikely looking diagonal ledge across a rock face (from the N end of the Pearl Drop Ice Basin), then continuing up and right on hanging snowslopes to gain the S ridge of pt 2239 above prominent gendarmes. Easily up the ridge above then traverse the E Face pt 2239 (straightforward but exposed) to Hugh Ice. Climb: Starting at the remnants of Hugh Ice, Steep scrambling on clean rock (good holds) leads up the E then lower angled NE slopes to the summit.
Allan Brent, Ruari Macfarlane, Feb 2020