Mt Wakeman

Climb to the col (sometimes corniced to the east) on the spur between the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier and a feeder névé of the White Glacier. Cross this steep névé to the summit. The rocky North Ridge to the true left of the col may also be traversed to the peak, however a traverse on the full ridge from the col adjacent the 2108m point tends to become a full day outing.

Approached directly from the névé of the White Glacier by the wide, steep feeder snowfield below the summit. In early summer this route is avalanche swept, and by late summer a bergschrund and rock cliff bar access midway. Certainly not a winter route!

This route is near Barker Hut. Located at the north-eastern end (lowest point) of a outlier summit (2189m) on the North East Ridge. The orange-coloured, triangle-shaped buttress can be seen directly out the west-facing window of Barker Hut. Walk for about 30 minutes from the hut up towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. The climb starts once past some steep, smooth rock with vertical cracks (good options also) and then a broken, rust-coloured gully. Climb up slabs with short steep sections for two pitches (grade 15 with good protection), then easier climbing up to grade 14 through fantastic orange rock for another three pitches. Either scramble up from there to the outlier summit, or angle easily down a scree ledge system back into the basin opposite the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier.

To the (climber’s) right of Hug-a-Ginga, starts up the vague crack/slab system slanting out right. Gear generally plentiful, climbing very mellow. – Easy climbing but on sometimes broken rock (14). – From the base of the distinctive orange face with multiple vertical cracks, take the rightmost crack (or another, at probably a higher grade) then continue up balancey slabs on generally good rock to the base of the steep headwall with obvious big cracks (15/16 depending on crack taken at orange face). – Move to the climber’s right around the headwall and climb the slabs to the top of the bulge. – From here scramble to the top of the outlier peak (14). If abseiling the route, note rap points carefully on ascent as good ones are hard to find (smooth domes of doom).