K34 779 998
BV19 680 382
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
  Climb to the col (sometimes corniced to the east) on the spur between the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier and a feeder névé of the White Glacier. Cross this steep névé to the summit. The rocky North Ridge to the true left of the col may also be traversed to the peak, however a traverse on the full ridge from the col adjacent the 2108m point tends to become a full day outing.
  Approached directly from the névé of the White Glacier by the wide, steep feeder snowfield below the summit. In early summer this route is avalanche swept, and by late summer a bergschrund and rock cliff bar access midway. Certainly not a winter route!

J P Wilson, A Anderson, 16 December 1930

Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.

This route is near Barker Hut. Located at the north-eastern end (lowest point) of a outlier summit (2189m) on the North East Ridge. The orange-coloured, triangle-shaped buttress can be seen directly out the west-facing window of Barker Hut. Walk for about 30 minutes from the hut up towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. The climb starts once past some steep, smooth rock with vertical cracks (good options also) and then a broken, rust-coloured gully. Climb up slabs with short steep sections for two pitches (grade 15 with good protection), then easier climbing up to grade 14 through fantastic orange rock for another three pitches. Either scramble up from there to the outlier summit, or angle easily down a scree ledge system back into the basin opposite the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier.

John Price, Paul Hersey, 27 November 2010

This place appears in: 
Arthur’s Pass: a guide for mountaineers
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