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Southeast Face

First ascent
Dave Hegan, Hanno Snyman, Robert Phillips & Jun [JPN], 6 February 2018
Located on
Topo ref

The southeast face is reached by traversing over Phipps Peak, and the 1820m point, or by sidling into the col between Mt Stuart and the 1820m point from Pegleg Creek. Ascend the scree slope from the col towards a left-trending ramp of rock and scree at the bottom of the rock face. Ascend this ramp upwards then traverse off right to join the hanging scree slope. Climb to the head of the scree under a vertical gully. Ascend the obvious, diagonal, left-trending ramp until you reach a rock ledge. From here there are multiple routes up to the South Ridge of Mt Stuart that involve climbing straight up steep, but solid rock, or working your way up through various ledges and chimneys, skirting around patches of scree and/or rotten rock as you go. Once the ridge is gained continue on to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2
  • 190m