West Ridge

Approach from Good Luck Creek basin via the Deception River route or alternatively via the densely wooded spur that leaves the Deception River at K33 974151, on the true left of the stream that drains the Franklin-Russell escarpment. This ridge is notoriously long and loose, and has multiple gendarmes. Once committed to this route there are no escape routes, however travel tends to be fast over large sections. Considered a mid spring climb when ice clings to it. The ridge can be dangerously corniced under winter conditions, making it extremely hard to negotiate. Descend by the south ridge.