Lake Sally

(5 routes)

There are a few routes from the Lake Sally basin.


Lake Sally is at best difficult to approach and a high camp is strongly recommended under the knoll near its outflow. Access to the lake is gained by the ridge and loose bush covered slopes south of the stream which drains it, from the Otehake River West Branch. Alternatively ascend the slopes on the north side of the same stream, sidling around the base of the East Ridge to reach the lake. Eastern descents from Mt Franklin tend to be very steep, natural anchors allowing abseils directly onto the snowfield are available. Under winter conditions the routes can all be fraught by overhanging cornices.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Way Down Sally 5-
Take the narrow couloir that starts on the right-hand side of the main buttress in the centre of the South East Face. Ascend 3 pitches to the snowfield at mid-height. Trend left up the snow field for 1 pitch to the rock rib. Follow the gully to the right of this onto the upper snowfields. Eight pitches in total. Join the South Ridge (8.7) approximately 75m to the SW of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.
Don French, James Wright, 22 October 2006
Blue Line Sally Can’t Dance 4- WI3
2 pitches of WI 3 ice lead to a snow couloir, which widens and joins the main ridge 30m south of the summit. Descent made via east ridge and upper east ridge snow fields requiring one abseil. To the R of the French/Wright line Way down Sally.
Josh Mitchell, Ben Ellis, 27 July 2019
East Ridge 2
The steep, jagged East Ridge merges into the East Face of the mountain. Traverse northwards to gain the steep gullies ascending to the summit.
Upper East Snowfield Couloirs 2
From the permanent snowfield north of the East Ridge, three very steep couloirs gain the summit directly. These all tend to provide better climbs during the frozen winter months.
North East Ridge 2
From the Lake Sally outlet, head north and sidle under the North East Ridge’s southern flank, climbing the first possible gully to its crest. The ridge is followed cautiously to the summit.

This place appears in