From Lake Sally

Type

Part of

There are several routes on the eastern aspects of Mt Franklin. A high camp at Lake Sally is strongly recommended, under the knoll near its outflow. Under winter conditions the routes can all be fraught by overhanging cornices. Eastern descents from Mt Franklin tend to be very steep but natural anchors are available to abseil directly onto the snowfield.

Access

Lake Sally is at best difficult to approach. Access is from the Otehake River West Branch, either by the ridge and loose, bush-covered slopes south of the stream which drains the lake, or alternatively by ascending slopes on the north side of the same stream and sidling around the base of the East Ridge to reach the lake.

Accessed from

Otehake River

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
	Way Down Sally, 5-	5-	0
Take the narrow couloir that starts on the right-hand side of the main buttress in the centre of the South East Face. Ascend 3 pitches to the snowfield at mid-height. Trend left up the snow field for 1 pitch to the rock rib. Follow the gully to the right of this onto the upper snowfields. Eight pitches in total. Join the South Ridge (8.7) approximately 75m to the SW of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5-
Blue Line	Blue LineSally Can’t Dance, 4-,WI3	4-,WI3	0
2 pitches of WI 3 ice lead to a snow couloir, which widens and joins the main ridge 30m south of the summit. Descent made via east ridge and upper east ridge snow fields requiring one abseil. To the R of the French/Wright line Way down Sally. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4- Water Ice WI3
	East Ridge, 2	2	0
The steep, jagged East Ridge merges into the East Face of the mountain. Traverse northwards to gain the steep gullies ascending to the summit. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2
	Upper East Snowfield Couloirs, 2	2	0
From the permanent snowfield north of the East Ridge, three very steep couloirs gain the summit directly. These all tend to provide better climbs during the frozen winter months. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2
	North East Ridge, 2	2	0
From the Lake Sally outlet, head north and sidle under the North East Ridge’s southern flank, climbing the first possible gully to its crest. The ridge is followed cautiously to the summit. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2

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UUID

2d66cdde-1162-4016-9088-99dd5935521d