Unwin Crag | ClimbNZ | climbnz.org.nz

(4 routes)

A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter.

Type:

Crag

Altitude:

900m

Aspect:

North West

Walk time:

20min

Access:

There is a marked track to Unwin Crag & takes about 20 mins. Immediately behind Unwin Hut cross the stile and follow a fence to the base of the hill. Cross the fence for 100m to a large cairn. Head up the faint gully then work up and R. Traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up. The tape mentioned on the photo does not exist.

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon:

-43.757668000000, 170.113195000000

NZMS260:

H36 776 126

Topo50:

BY15 676 510

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Fringe Benefit

28m

Crux bolt 6 to 7 up smooth slab between edge & crack: This climb has a DBB lower than the other 2 routes.

Ray Button & Dave Alderson. 22/1/11

Whispering Grass

25m

Crux trend left at 7th bolt (Ray) but other people seem to find crux around 3rd bolt.

Ray Button 9/4/2012

Pinot

23m

Easiest of the 3 routes. Bigger and more postive features.

Ray Button 2012

Secret Squirrel Arete

15 ,13

54m

DB anchors. The rap from the top of P1 is 30m.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	15	32m	10	No
	Starting in the centre of the wall trend left towards the arete on a variety of side pulls and flakes. The start can seep but you can clip the bolt and then start up further left.
2	13	22m	6	No
	A short pitch on easier climbing towards and on the arete and a spacious belay ledge.

Ray Button 15/12/2012

Attribution:

Ray Button

UUID:

f2bf5345-0db8-48a8-800a-91719bd04819