Unwin Crag

(4 routes)

A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter. Be good to get some traffic on the track to get it more established and confirmation of grades. Would appreciate feedback.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
900m
Aspect: 
North West
Walk time: 
20min
Access: 

There is now a marked track to Unwin Crag & takes about 20 mins. Walk behind Unwin Hut, cross the fence and head along the base for 75m to a large cairn. Head up the faint gully then work up and R. Traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up. Tyhe tape mentioned on the photo does not exist.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.757668000000, 170.113195000000
NZMS260: 
H36 776 126
Topo50: 
BY15 676 510
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Fringe Benefit 16 28m
1.02
9bolts
Crux bolt 6 to 7 up smooth slab between edge & crack: This climb has a DBB lower than the other 2 routes.
Ray Button & Dave Alderson. 22/1/11
2 Whispering Grass 16 25m
0
9bolts
Crux trend left at 7th bolt (Ray) but other people seem to find crux around 3rd bolt.
Ray Button 9/4/2012
3 Pinot 15 23m
0
8bolts
Easiest of the 3 routes. Bigger and more postive features.
Ray Button 2012
4 Secret Squirrel Arete 15 ,13 54m
1.02
16bolts
DB anchors. The rap from the top of P1 is 30m.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11532m10No
 Starting in the centre of the wall trend left towards the arete on a variety of side pulls and flakes. The start can seep but you can clip the bolt and then start up further left.
21322m6No
 A short pitch on easier climbing towards and on the arete and a spacious belay ledge.
Ray Button 15/12/2012
Attribution: 
Ray Button