Crimea Wall

(12 routes)

The rougher looking wall below and right from Orange wall. Approach up the gully left of Twin cracks as for Javelin starting on lower left of scree. Follow track around to R , up some handline until back on the spur directly across from Javelin Wall. Track to Javelin heads L at this point and you should see the Crimea Wall up and R. Continue up a few more m the duck into gully on R, arriving at L end of the Crimea Wall. There are several newer routes not yet added here including 1 to the R of Battle Fatique (Judge) about 21.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
793m
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
15
Lat/Lon: 
-43.750620000000, 170.110980000000
NZMS260: 
H36 774 134
Topo50: 
BY15 674 518
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
SK Shell Shock 17 12m
0
5bolts
Near the left arete, add a couple of grades if you avoid the arete and stay on the face.
Murray Judge Feb 2013
Sh Shrapnel 18 10m
0
3bolts
Takes a couple of small wires after the first bolt.
Rob Connolly Feb 2012
Charlie Brown 16 ,12 36m
0
12bolts
Start beside a small Totara tree a few m left of the 2 ring bolt anchor for Back in the USSR. Pitch 1 finishes just left of the first belay of BITUSSR.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11636m12No
 

Start beside a small Totara tree a few m left of the 2 ring bolt anchor for Back in the USSR. Pitch 1 finishes just left of the first belay of BITUSSR.

2120mNo
 

Step slightly right at start, move up and onto arete, finish next to second belay of BITUSSR.

Murray Judge 4/15 (pitch 1)
BITUSSR Back in the U.S.S.R 14 ,13 38m
0
8bolts wire representing trad
From the double ring anchor at ground level climb the arete past 2B to natural pro section then up the face above.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11420m6Yes
 

From the double ring anchor at ground level climb the arete past 2B to natural pro section then up the face above.

21318m2Yes
 

From the belay follow the cracks above to a bolt runner. Move up and L to belay ledge

Dave Brash and Aoraki Polytech students Mar 2015
HA Holy Alliance 13 ,15 35m
0
14bolts
Start as for BITUSSR move R and up into R facing corner to DBB.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11320m8No
 

Start as for BITUSSR move R and up into R facing corner to DBB.

21515m6No
 

Through the overlap and follow the face above. his pitch is quite good.

Dave Brash and Aoraki Polytech students Mar 2015
Se The Siege of Sebastapol 16 27m
0
7bolts
Murray Judge Jan 2013
CR Cry me a River 16
0
Nick Van de Vleird Jan 2013
CL The Charge of the Light Brigade 19
0
7bolts
sustained steep slab on small crimps
Murray Judge Jan 2013
TH Te Heke 15
0
Follows a jagged crack line to the left of the bolts. Shares the belay to L.
Nick Van de Vleird Jan 2013
BF Battle Fatigue 17
0
Murray Judge Jan 2013
Un-named 21
0
Starts behind tree to R of Battle Fatigue following R edge of slab to finish at the same anchor.
Murray Judge 4/15
SC Santas Chimney extension 18 , 45m
0
11bolts wire representing trad
This was originally the continuation pitches of Santa Chimney but it is probably worth treating as a stand alone climb since it is easily accessed from the top end of the Crimea Wall.Up the curving line to overlap then hard moves to ledge. 9B
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11825m9Yes
 

This was originally the continuation pitches of Santa Chimney but it is probably worth treating as a stand alone climb since it is easily accessed from the top end of the Crimea Wall.Up the curving line to overlap then hard moves to ledge. 9B

220m2Yes
 

Up slab to thin crack, wires and small cams. From the top follow track through scrub across and down to Orange wall. 2B

Murray Judge,John Hamilton, Dec '12
Attribution: 
Topo by Dave Brash, Photo Topo Simon Middlemass

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UUID: 
ca74f614-ee1e-4b47-9897-b54c31954cd5