The most direct line to Mt Wakefield’s summit. From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker valley track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield (the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley). Start on a compact sandstone staircase on the true right of the scree (grade 10–12), then follow a broken ridge to the cliff bands, which are the crux of the climb. Trend right from the flat col at the top of the ridge on superb weathered greywacke to behind the obvious pink notch on the right edge of the cliff bands. This bypasses the cliffs via another sandstone staircase (crux) to finish on easier ground and gullies to the summit.
Numerous direct lines through the cliff bands exist with rock quality varying between take-home-with-you and excellent, with adequate protection available with cams 0.5-2. See topo for bypass route and variations.
- P1
- 12
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
- 800m
